Horsetuner.com | Sharing information about the care, training and riding of horses.

Mustering the Courage to Ride Again

2012-01-22T13:24:00.002-06:00

Dear Horsetuner--

"Hi, I had a bad accident June 29th 2010. I was riding ( my first horse I had owned in over 15 years) and decided to canter him for the first time. I cantered around the ring once and he was fine I yelled for my kids to watch and cued him to canter again and he spooked ( I guess) don't really remember too much. and I fell off and he stepped right on my left ankle. He shattered my ankle and spent the next 7 months in a cast, after having surgery and having a lot of hardware put into my ankle to hold it together. I still loved my horse but my kids were afraid of him because they saw the accident so I bought a new horse who is very gentle my 5 y/o rides her. When I got on her she gets spooky and have fallen off 2x because of her spooks that are usually on my weak ankle side...On top of gaining 50+ lbs being stuck in a recliner for 7 months I am not in the best shape and any horse terrifies me. I desperately want to ride again but I have no confidence what so ever....I would love to have any input you can give me..."

Thanks, Karen

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Leave a comment for Karen by clicking the comment link below.

Meet Molly | One Resilient Pony!

2012-01-15T22:45:00.001-06:00

This was sent to me in one of those forwarded emails....so I can't state clearly its origin, but I thought I would share. (If someone knows, by all means let me know...)

It is truly a reminder and a testament to how resilient and brave animals can be! Truly amazing...

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She's a gray speckled pony who was abandoned by her owners when Hurricane Katrina hit southern Louisiana. She spent weeks on her own before finally being rescued and taken to a farm where abandoned animals were stockpiled. While there, she was attacked by a dog and almost died. Her gnawed right front leg became infected, and her vet went to LSU for help, but LSU was overwhelmed, and this pony was a welfare case. You know how that goes...

But after surgeon Rustin Moore met Molly, he changed his mind. He saw how the pony was careful to lie down on different sides so she didn't seem to get sores, and how she allowed people to handle her. She protected her injured leg. She constantly shifted her weight and didn't overload her good leg. She was a smart pony with a serious survival ethic.

Moore agreed to remove her leg below the knee, and a temporary artificial limb was built. Molly walked out of the clinic and her story really begins there.

'This was the right horse and the right owner,' Moore insists. Molly happened to be a one-in-a-million patient. She's tough as nails, but sweet, and she was willing to cope with pain. She made it obvious she understood that she was in trouble. The other important factor, according to Moore, is having a truly committed and compliant owner who is dedicated to providing the daily care required over the lifetime of the horse.

Molly's story turns into a parable for life in Post-Katrina Louisiana...The little pony gained weight, and her mane finally felt a comb. A human prosthesis designer built her a leg. The prosthetic has given Molly a whole new life, Allison Barca DVM, Molly's regular vet, reports.

And she asks for it. She will put her little limb out, and come to you and let you know that she wants you to put it on. Sometimes she wants you to take it off too. And sometimes, Molly gets away from Barca. 'It can be pretty bad when you can't catch a three-legged horse,' she laughs.

Most important of all, Molly has a job now. Kay, the rescue farm owner, started taking Molly to shelters, hospitals, nursing homes, and rehabilitation centers. Anywhere she thought that people needed hope. Wherever Molly went, she showed people her pluck. She inspired people, and she had a good time doing it.

'It's obvious to me that Molly had a bigger role to play in life, Moore said. She survived the hurricane, she survived a horrible injury, and now she is giving hope to others.' Barca concluded, 'She's not back to normal, but she's going to be better. To me, she could be a symbol for New Orleans itself.'

This is Molly's most recent prosthesis. The bottom photo shows the ground surface that she stands on, which has a smiley face embossed in it. Wherever Molly goes, she leaves a smiley hoof print behind.

Girl + Horse Battle Grizzy & Win!!

2011-10-12T21:11:00.001-05:00

Proof!

2011-07-29T18:53:00.001-05:00

Proof that motherhood doesn't have to slow your horsey activities down!!...Hope Kali doesn't mind I'm sharing this...I think this is pretty amazing!! :)

Why Do Girls Love Horses, Unicorns And Dolphins?

2011-02-14T19:25:00.005-06:00

by The Kitchen Sisters

NPR PODCAST & ARTICLE:

"Why Do Girls Love Horses, Unicorns & Dolphins?"

..."By identifying with these dynamic, strong animals, Orenstein says, girls are expressing their own power...."

Sent to Horsetuner by of Diane Davis.

“Of Women and Horses” By: Larissa Cleveland

2011-01-29T21:07:00.007-06:00

“If you have it, it is for life, it is a disease for which there is no cure…I shall keep my horses as long as I can hobble about with a bucket and a wheelbarrow. And when I can’t hobble, I shall role my wheelchair out to the field where my horses graze, so that I may watch them.”

-Monica Dickens, author and great-granddaughter of Charles Dickens

The equestrian sport world is one of the few athletic competitions in which men and women compete side by side. It is a sport in which a man’s superior strength serves no advantage, and although physically taxing, a woman’s guidance, motherly instinct and intuition can serve as a gift more powerful than muscle alone. This body of work is inspired by my observations of horse and rider, and also by my own experiences as an equestrian for over fifteen years. It is my goal to illustrate the relationship between a woman and her horse through photography, resulting in a visual examination of the dedication and unspoken bond that exists between them. Larissa Cleveland

Click the images to enlarge.

Patches: The Coolest Horse!

2010-12-30T13:08:00.001-06:00

12 DAYS OF HORSEY DEALS!

2010-12-18T15:07:00.018-06:00

12 DAYS of HORSEY DEALS!

We tested and price compared...a present to you from Horsetuner.com & PonyPros.net!

#12!!--Ok @Rachelle you asked for it, and we delivered...On the 12th and final day of 12 Days of Horsey Deals, my barn cat gave to meeeee....12 Santa Hats for all my horses and ponies!! $9.99 http://tinyurl.com/24on53a Antler version: $14.99 http://tinyurl.com/25qtqon

#11--WHO DOESN'T LOVE A GREAT MULTI-TASKER?? On the 11th day of Christmas my barn cat gave to meeee.....11 SEAT BELT COVERS! WHAT?!?!...Oh yes, these super cheap, Velcro seat belt covers from Walmart make awesome nose band covers for Western or English Bridles or Halters! GREAT, last minute stocking stuffer!...and since they are so cheap, you won't feel bad if you have to cut them to fit!

#10--On the tenth day of Christmas my barn cat gave to me.... 10...Kensington All Around Thermal Saddle Bags!...made of ballistic insulated nylon! These saddle bags can be attached to Western, English or Aussie cantles! http://tinyurl.com/3a22w82 $55.95 We love these saddle bags because they are easily wiped down and LIGHT unlike heavy, leather saddle bags. The parachute clasps are secure...and who says saddle bags have to be dreary colors like black and brown?? Ride in style!!....Need a check list of what to include?? Take a look at this article from May! http://tinyurl.com/37k5rfe

#9--For once, not only TREAT your horse, treat yourself...with LUXURY! This is a UNIVERSAL saddle seat saver. Yes, it's a tad of a splurge, and yes, there are cheaper versions.....but we really liked this pad because 1) it's universal so if you have English/Western/Aussie riders in your family or even if you ride in multiple saddles you can still use this pad. 2) The pad is washable sheepskin 3) adjustable with elastic fasteners 4) its a wider pad that covers more of the saddles' seat (and your seat ;) ) and 5) it isn't bulky and doesn't deflate over time. :) http://tinyurl.com/33tcho3 $105 Comes in In black, brown or natural.

#8--BECAUSE WE AREN'T ALL A SIZE 2--For the second to the last spot, we are awarding "Equestrian Collections" with the "Most Realistic Riding Pants Award" for the widest selection of PLUS SIZE styles on the web! We love that there is a wide array of colors, styles and sizes to fit a plethora of riders, young and old. http://tinyurl.com/26gyxgz **Use promo code 'HELLO' to get $5 off!**

#7--On the SEVENTH day of Christmas my barn kitty gave to meeee.....7 Plastic Hoof Picks!!....Soooo why did we pick these picks??...Well, if you're like us at horsetuner, you are always misplacing your picks...but when the pick is only $1.50!! you can afford to buy a few and pepper them through out your barn and tack r...oom....so you never skip this very important step in horse care again! Also, since this pick is very lightweight it's perfect for little, young hands! GREAT stocking stuffer! http://www.tackwholesale.com/hoof-pick-with-brush-closeup2-771.html

#6--What do you get for the equestrian in your life that already has all their equipment?? A SADDLE CADDY! Not only is this caddy HEAVY DUTY and has two ways of positioning it, IT COMES IN PINK! (or black) This caddy is perfect for SHOWING or SCHOOLING, for youths or adult equestrians, for English or Western saddles! $60. http://tinyurl.com/29tgynb

#5--On the FIFTH DAY OF CHRISTMAS MY BARN CAT GAVE TO ME...Super warm, waterproof, sturdy blanket for 1/3 the average cost! $67 Dura-Tech® VIKING II Turnouts:
http://www.sstack.com/euro-turnouts/dura-tech-viking-ii-turnouts/ ...And it has warmth levels! Warmth Levels: Heavyweight (400 gm insulation), Midweight (200 gm insulation), Sheet (no insulation).

#4--On the FOURTH DAY OF CHRISTMAS MY BARN CAT GAVE TO ME...Fooouurr $46.90 ($36.90 with our coupon code!!) Ovation™ Deluxe Schooler Helmets!....Looks like a GPA or International but waaaay less expensive! (Pending SEI certification). Try coupon code "TENOFF" with DoverSaddlery.com to get $10 off your purchase! http://tinyurl.com/2e6t9ey -- If you're a stickler for SEI cert., check out this one. http://tinyurl.com/29cd8wv We love this helmet for its ventalation--Perfect for hot summer months!

#4 ACCESSORY -- Ok, I'm the FIRST to admit this visor is pretty silly looking, and it makes you look a little like Laura from Little House on the Prairie....BUT in 95 degree heat, you will do ANYTHING to stay cool and keep the sun out of your eyes...especially if you need to cool down your favorite furry friends! Check out this link to buy one for $36 bucks (one of the cheapest links I found)....Scroll down the page to see some other very nice looking hats that offer 380 degree protection. http://tinyurl.com/2bq4z68 :)

#3--On the THIRD DAY OF CHRISTMAS MY BARN CAT GAVE TO ME....THREEEEE $69 Riding Sport Winter Bootcut Breeches!....Almost as warm as snowpants with 1/4 the bulk! And we especially love how they look over paddock boots! http://tinyurl.com/2857j4u This one even COMES WITH A COUPON TIP from @KaliKiger! = Try coupon code "TENOFF" with DoverSaddlery.com to get $10 off your purchase!

#2--On the SECOND DAY OF CHRISTMAS MY BARN CAT GAVE TO ME....TWOOOO Synthetic Children's Lead Line Saddle SET w/ Pad!...Kali recommends this set, again, not only for its crazy awesome price but because its "Great to have a saddle around parents can borrow and you don't have to worry about oiling." Kali practices natural horsemanship and generally strays away from saddles with trees, so this saddle is a great alternative to a traditional "tree-ed" saddle! Super comfy on long trail rides!...and if anyone knows a great children's saddle, it's the folks from PonyPros. http://tinyurl.com/278zfh8

We also love these....Horsey Christmas Lights! http://tinyurl.com/36vhywh

#1--On the FIRST DAY OF CHRISTMAS MY BARN CAT GAVE TO ME....OOOONE $60 Closed Front Winter Blanket w/ Belly Band! (originally $160!!) http://tinyurl.com/2cmctwu @KaliKiger chose this particular blanket, not only for its price, but for its ability to keep bellies clean and dry (especially on her light colored ponies!)...which we all know is crucial for optimum winter health. We also like this blanket because it adjusts well to different size barrels....which may fluctuate some, especially in the winter months! ;)

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DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!!!

2010-12-13T16:03:00.002-06:00

YIKES!!!--On this week's episode of "16 and Pregnant" on MTV we meet Kayla, a southern belle who loves being near the stables. In this sneak peek below, she cautiously takes her NEWBORN baby, Rylan, for a ride. It starts off shaky, but thankfully she decides to hand Rylan off to his father before continuing on the bumpy excursion...

Great night for trail riding!

2010-12-13T15:43:00.004-06:00

Great night for trail riding!!--Don't miss the best meteor shower of 2010 TONIGHT
http://huff.to/fKaO40

Stargazers are in for a treat tonight as the annual Geminid meteor shower is set to peak in the early hours of December 14, 2010. According to The AP, astronomers predict that it will be the best meteor shower of the year, with over 100 blazing meteors streaking through the sky each hour.

While the entire shower should be somewhat visible between December 12 and December 16, the best time to watch is between midnight tonight and sunset tomorrow morning, with ideal visibility in the Northern Hemisphere.

The meteors will appear to fall from the Gemini constellation, thus the reason for its name, so face northeast to witness the spectacle.

According to National Geographic, Geminid is the only annual meteor shower though to come from an asteroid-like object, known as 3200 Phaethon, a three-mile-wide space rock discovered by a NASA satellite in 1983.

WATCH THESE HOT STUDS!!.....And the guys aren't bad too ;)

2010-12-09T10:38:00.001-06:00

Equestrian superstar Nacho Figueras talks polo, fame and his love of horses!--Be sure to watch until the middle when they explain the 123s of polo.

10 DAYS OF HORSEY HOLIDAY DEALS

2010-12-07T12:22:00.002-06:00

We are kicking off our 10 DAYS OF HORSEY HOLIDAY DEALS with the help of Kali Kiger from PonyPros!

Exclusively on our Facebook Page. Come "like" us and join the conversation!

VIDEOS OF THE WEEK

2010-11-17T12:13:00.001-06:00

Choosing a Horse Based on the Weather?? by Soso Whaley

2010-11-05T11:20:00.022-05:00

When looking for a new horse, what is your main criteria for choosing one horse over another? Looks? Training? Breed? Age? When you choose a horse do you ever think about what type of horse would do best in the weather conditions prevalent in your area? Or does the ability of the horse to withstand extreme weather conditions appear way down on your list of needs in an equine companion?

Granted there are lots of reasons for choosing a horse but the ability of the horse to deal with the weather conditions found where you live is too often overlooked. I remember when I decided to purchase my first equine I chose a Mule, not only because they are extremely intelligent, but because they are capable of withstanding extreme temperature ranges such as is found in New Hampshire where I live. For me this was a top of the list item because I had a nice shed and paddock area for my Mule but it was rough and I was worried that if I acquired an equine more suited for warmer climates that they would be negatively impacted by our cold weather extremes. I wanted an animal I did not have to worry about blanketing in the dead of winter or keeping cool on the most tropical New England day and I was lucky to have found that in my Mule.

When I decided to acquire a horse I chose a Mustang, which just like the Mule, was very adaptable to changing weather conditions and extremes and I was not disappointed in her ability to withstand some of the worst New England had to throw at her. Of course I am well aware of what might have happened if I had chosen poorly, and I only hope that you might consider moving the adaptability of the horse to your weather to at least the top 5 criteria when choosing an animal.

Most horses can adapt well to colder weather as long as they have shelter from the wind, rain and snow. Believe it or not a south-facing three-sided shelter with straw bedding is sufficient for most horses to get through the roughest winter. Of course when temps drop you need to feed extra hay as a little extra fat helps to fend off the cold. Make sure to use your hands as well as your eyes to track winter weight so your horse does not get thin under a winter coat.

Ideally, you should be able to allow your horse to grow a normal winter coat but this is difficult if it is stabled inside all winter. To be honest horses are much healthier and happier when they are allowed to move in and out of their shelter freely and their coat will develop accordingly to the weather based on the amount of daylight and temperature range. However, if your horse is stabled and spends most of the time in the barn then you will need to blanket it but you will also need to make sure to adjust your care regimen to make sure the horse is brushed out on a regular basis and that they are not standing around in wet blankets. The very act of removing the horses’ ability to develop a normal coat during the winter increases the chance that your horse will experience health problems so it will be up to you to be vigilant.

When you have extreme temperature ranges such as here in New England you definitely want to choose a breed that is hearty and able to withstand sudden changes of hot and cold weather. But what if you live in a more temperate area? Well then you will not have to worry about extremes of cold and heat and can have a bit more flexibility when choosing a horse. What if you live in a more tropical or desert environment? Certain horses were bred in particular areas of the world in an effort to create the “perfect” breed for man’s needs, able to work and live in some of the most extreme climates around the world as well as more temperate places.

For instance, hot blooded horses like Thoroughbreds and Arabians can do very well in extremely cold climates as long as you allow them to develop proper winter coats; however, even these winter warriors cannot withstand the coldest temperatures if you insist on keeping them clipped or do not allow their winter coats to grow properly due to stabling them for long periods of time. These two also have the ability to withstand extremely high temperatures as well which is one of the reasons these two breeds are so popular with people in a lot of different areas of the world.

Cold blooded horses such as Clydesdales and Gypsy Cobs can take extreme cold temperatures with a woolly coat but you might find them more difficult to maintain in an extremely hot/tropical environment. By the way some ponies are also cold blooded and very good at taking extreme weather changes. Surprisingly most horses will adapt much better to extreme cold than extreme heat but you do need to maintain them properly for the conditions, hay and water being just as important as shelter and a windbreak.

As for warm blooded horses, these sport animals are neither cold nor hot blooded and not always crosses between the two. It is more about "type" rather than breeding. Generally large animals that are more refined these horses can also survive some large temperature swings but might not do as well in some of the most "extreme" weather around the world. So the good news is that most horses can stand extreme temperature changes and weather but the bad news is that it is up to the owner to be vigilant about making sure their horse is properly prepared to face the cold days of winter or the hot, steamy days of summer.

You might take time to look at what type(s) of horse was bred in your part of the world in order to help you make a better decision about the type of horse to bring into your life. Granted you might have certain goals such as hunter/jumper, dressage, barrel racing, reigning but you should also consider how a horse might be affected by the weather in your hometown and whether you can provide them with the best conditions possible to help them survive weather extremes as well as those beautiful days that are so perfect for riding.

by Soso Whaley --an animal-trainer & enthusiast from Kensington, New Hampshire (seen above)

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Horses in Costume!! Happy Halloweeeeen!

2010-10-31T17:31:00.004-05:00

Zoey, Katelynn & Emma Share Their Perspective on Ponies and Riding :: Bend, Oregon

2010-10-06T16:30:00.031-05:00

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Three young students from Bend, Oregon's PonyPros share their thoughts on ponies and riding. All three girls are students of Kali & Les Kiger's. Some of you might remember Kali Kiger (formerly Kali Vanagas) who shared an amazing podcast about Trailering Your Horse back in June. I'm sure we all can relate to the excitement surrounding our first experiences with horses, ponies, training and riding...but these girls are accomplishing things some of us have taken years to perfect (if at all)!

(Click the images to enlarge)

Zoey, 9

My name is Zoey and I am nine years old. My pony, Wallie, is four years old. We have been working together for one year. When I got him, Wallie had never been ridden. Now we can canter, jump, and trail ride, and I can stand on his back. Wallie is 11'2h. He is a small Section B Welsh pony.

When I arrive at the barn, I halter my pony, walk to the barn, and groom him. Sometimes I put a saddle or bareback pad on him, sometimes not. Then, we walk to the arena. I have two warm up routines: PonyPros' Travel Together, Particular Pressure, and Laterals, or the Parelli 7 games for days when Wallie needs a longer warm up. After warming up, I hop on Wallie and walk or trot around the arena.

After I ride for about thirty minutes or an hour, I get off and give him love. Sometimes we stop part way through to give his back a rest and play with the beanbag or ball. Sometimes I untack in the arena, hang the bareback pad or saddle on the fence (if I am riding with tack, that is), and play at liberty for awhile. Then, I give Wallie his supplement and we walk back to Wallie's pasture. I remove his halter and hang it on the gate. He returns to his pen to play with his pony friends. I clean up the arena and head home.

Working with horses is really cool and I know that I am very lucky to be doing what I do. What I like about working with horses is that you can learn from your mistakes and from your horse. Also, Wallie teaches me to be patient when he is learning a new trick. When I am working with Wallie, I am thinking a lot about how he feels, whether we are on the ground or not. Other times, when we are riding, I am thinking about where I want to go.

When I see Wallie, I feel happy. Wallie is funny and he makes me laugh. I feel understood when I am with Wallie. For example, with when I am sad, he slows down and is more cooperative.

I would like to thank Kali and Les, my teachers, because they have taught me natural horsemanship and clicker training, and how to work with my pony.

Katelynn, 13

My name is Katelynn and I am 13 years old. I started with PonyPros when I was 11. I have been playing with an amazing 10-year-old Arabian/Paint cross pony named Quick Draw McGraw. He is named after a popular old cartoon because he looks similar to the hero of the show, Quick Draw!

I want to spend all of my free time with the great ponies at PonyPros because it is always great to just play and be with them. While I’m with my pony, I am thinking how lucky I am to be part of this great organization because they paired me up with my absolute perfect pony! Quick Draw is goofy yet loveable, always trying to impress you but knows his manners, and always tries to please.

PonyPros is a great organization that really wants to help kids just like me. It is great for kids who have wanted their own pony to play with ever since they can remember, but never had the time or space for one. Without PonyPros, I wouldn’t have the opportunity to learn natural horsemanship or play with a pony. I come out 3-5 days a week, and on weekends, spend about three hours a day. I am a pony addict! Not only did PonyPros allow me to be with ponies, but also to meet new friends! Most of the kids in the PonyPros program are around my age and enjoy the same things I do…PONIES!

PonyPros doesn’t just help kids it also helps ponies. Over half of the ponies, including my pony, Quick Draw, are rescues! Most unique of all, PonyPros doesn’t use bits and we do most of our riding bareback! What we typically learn at PonyPros is how to play with the ponies on the ground using natural horsemanship and clicker training. I am grateful to be part of this great organization!

Emma, 13

My name is Emma and I am 13 years old. I have been riding with Kali and Les for about 8 months. Before I became a PonyPro, I had ridden a couple times on the pony rides at fair and was lead on a horse when I was young. The first time I ever rode by myself was on my friend’s horse, but that was nothing like what I do now. What I rode like then was with a harsh bit and just in a side pasture on my friend’s farm, but now I ride without a bit in an actual arena and I enjoy it so much!

At PonyPros, I started with a pony named Thistle. She is a Section A Welsh pony, 11 years old, buckskin and 12’1h tall. When Thistle first came to the ranch, I saw her and knew I wanted to work with her. My trainer, Kali, told me she was nothing like I ever worked with before. She said that she had heard that Thistle was very difficult to manage and had never had any training, but that didn’t stop me!

I remember the first day I worked with Thistle. She hated be touched, so I rubbed her all over and eventually, she let me lay on her back and slide off her rump. Then I remember actually sitting on her back - it was so fat! She was a pasture pony before she came to the PonyPros. When I finally asked her to walk off, she wouldn’t move unless the two other ponies that were getting ridden for the first time also were with her. We came up with nick names for them - we called them “the smore” because one was a liver Chestnut so he was chocolate, and one was white, so he was the marshmallow. Then thistle was the gram cracker because she is buckskin!

After I worked with Thistle for a while, I started to work with one of Kali’s ponies that she owns. His name is Sam. Sam is a 13h Section B Welsh gelding. He is bay with 4 socks and a stripe. With Sam, I work on my focus, because on Thistle, I wasn’t that focused. Thistle would just go when you wanted her to, but with Sam you have to be very focused for him to cooperate with you. When I am with Sam, I feel really happy, but when I am on Sam, I feel like I am in a fantasy. I am a princess and he is my trusty steed. Sam makes me feel happy and he helps me learn so much when I am riding him. Each time I ride him, I learn something new about him or about me and riding. He is so funny - he knows how to do a bunch of tricks, and he is a silly pony - he likes to show off for people. He loves to perform and show everyone what he can do. I like playing with him. If I didn’t have horses in my life I don’t know what I would do. I think my life would fall apart! So I am glad to have Kali and Les in my life. Without them I wouldn’t have horses in my life...Well, I probably would, but it wouldn’t be as fun as it is now!

Commemorating a Friend

2010-09-25T13:10:00.011-05:00

These photographs were taken a few weeks ago by a friend of mine in Colorado named Justin VanAlstyne. Sadly, Justin was hired to commemorate the last few days of "Demon" who was in a lot of pain and needed to be put down. He was beautifully paid tribute to in these wonderful photographs. To see more of Justin's photo work check out:
www.etsy.com/shop/jmvdigital.

Click to Enlarge Images

The funny photography work of Julian Wolkenstein

2010-09-24T22:47:00.007-05:00

Click to enlarge images

My Life As A Mounted Games Rider!

2010-09-03T11:43:00.021-05:00

By Kyley DiLuigi

PaintingPony.com

I was 14 when I was first introduced to mounted games in 1998. I was fairly new to the United States Pony Club organization, having joined with my Arabian/Welsh cross pony, Oopsie Daisy. Oopsie and I loved Dressage – rare for a 14 year old – while most kids my age were into jumping and eventing. Oopsie hated to jump, and I preferred the intricate movements and the complexities that Dressage provided.

Sadly, I was beginning to outgrow my beloved 13.3 hand pony, and it wouldn’t be long before I couldn’t jack the stirrups up any higher to accommodate my long legs. Fearing the day that I would have to give up competing (or worse sell) my equine partner, a fellow pony clubber suggested I try Mounted Games. I didn’t really know what it was, but she told me that riders competed on ponies, and it didn’t matter how big you looked on them.

I went to watch the Eastern PA regional Mounted Games Rally, and instantly I was hooked. I watched as riders of all ages vaulted onto ponies at a gallop, weaved through bending poles, and popped balloons. But what I noticed the most was their ponies’ skills and connection to their riders. The ponies halted squarely from a gallop so their riders could put a flag in a cone, they spun on their haunches around barrels, and they even did flying lead changes! It was like Dressage at warp speed and more fun!

I signed up for the next mounted games practice with my club, and spent the next few weeks trying to teach myself how to vault onto my pony – surprisingly with success. From that very first practice, weaving through bending poles with Oopsie, as he switched leads every stride, I knew this was "my sport."

To best explain the sport, it involves a team of riders (typically 4 with 1 alternate) who participate in relay type races on horseback. The team who finishes the race first gets the highest points. At the end of a competition, the team with the highest points wins.

To begin a race riders stand at a starting line, waiting for a flag to drop. The first rider will complete a specific task (each race is different and has a different set of rules), they then cross the change over line allowing the next rider on their team to go. When the last rider on the team (signified by a white helmet cover or band) crosses the finish line the team’s placing is set. A team can, however, be eliminated for various things during the course of a race, such as not properly completing the race, breaking equipment, interfering with another team’s play, hitting a pony. Elimination results in 0 points for the race, and for less serious offenses disqualification results in 1 point.

Mounted Games is one of the very few equestrian sports that require a team. In general horseback riding is a fairly solitude sport. You may Event or do Dressage with a team, but you are scored individually and your points are added to your overall team score. Mounted Games is different in that you have to rely on your teammates, one of you fails (or messes up) and you all fail.

I believe Mounted Games is one of the most physically and emotionally demanding sports for both horse and rider. Ponies need to be fairly bombproof, with the ability to control their emotions in a race setting. How many racehorses do you see coming to a complete halt in the middle of a race? The best games ponies are versatile, and have a special connection with their riders. I spend years training my ponies, with Dressage as a basis to all of it, before I introduce them to competition. My current mount, Chesapeake Boomerang, competes in a bitless bridle, and has what I believe to be one of the best halts out on the playing field.

The best thing about Mounted Games is that it's for everyone! There are divisions for adults, novice, intermediate, and advanced riders, and there is probably a group of players in your area! And this year, for the first time ever, Mounted Games will be showcased during the World Equestrian Games in KY. Riders from England, Canada, New Zealand, Wales, Germany, Australia, and the US will compete. More information can be found at www.wegames.us

Find Mounted Games Players in Your Area:

Mounted Games Across America :: www.mountedgames.org
The United States Pony Club :: www.games.ponyclub.org
United States Mounted Games Association :: www.usmga.us
International Mounted Games Association :: www.mounted-games.org
(Find links to your countries specific Mounted Games site here)
Iron Horse Farm in Eastern PA :: www.ironhorsefarmpa.com

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Grand Prix Dressage without a Bridle!

2010-08-28T16:31:00.001-05:00

Horse Trivia! :: The Highest Jumper

2010-08-23T11:19:00.006-05:00

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Huaso (1933 - August 24, 1961) was the horse that, ridden by Chilean Captain Alberto Larraguibel, set the high-jump world record on February 5, 1949, by jumping 2.47 meters (8 ft. 2 in.), in Viña del Mar, Chile, one of the longest-running unbroken sport records in history (61 years as of 2010.)

Color: Chestnut
Markings: Star, forehead
Height: 16.1 hh (165 cm)
Sex: Stallion
Breed: Thoroughbred
Breeding: By Henry Lee; out of Trémula
Riders: Gaspar Lueje & Alberto Larraguibel

Share this story with all your horsey friends: Molly The Three Legged Pony

2010-08-16T10:30:00.000-05:00

Kerstin BREIN "HORSE SHOW"

2010-08-14T10:47:00.000-05:00

MOBILE UPLOAD: Argentinian Gaucho, Buenos Aires, Argentina

2010-08-10T11:23:00.005-05:00

An Argentinian gaucho grabs a ring with the tip of a feather on horseback. Buenos Aires, Argentina
(Click image to enlarge.)

Interview with Kelsey Lumsden: Horse Enthusiast & Michigan High School Student

2010-08-07T17:50:00.019-05:00

I’m Kelsey Lumsden, and I’ve been into horses for about 8 years. I’ve ridden saddle seat, hunt seat, some western, and have gotten into the jumping arena at times. Currently, I’ve gotten myself into the horse training world when I no longer had a trainer to help me. I consider myself exceptionally ambitious and put my blood, sweat, and tears into everything I do. Recently, I created my own website in order to help my friends who ended up in the same predicament as I did (not having a trainer).

What got you started riding/training horses?

Well, I’m actually not quite sure what got me into riding exactly. I believe that it probably all started at my friend’s birthday party when I was five or six years old. They had a pony ride at their house, and I remember getting off the pony at the end of my turn and getting right back into line. So that was probably the experience that sparked my love of riding, but I really didn’t get started riding until winter of 2002 when I actually started taking lessons. I probably stayed at my first stable for a year or so, and then I ended up switching stables. At the second stable, I rode a larger horse than the thirteen hand pony I had been previously riding. That’s when I decided I liked riding horses more than ponies. Shortly after, I switched stables again, and that’s when my riding got a little more serious. I started taking two lessons a week, and started doing a lot of the academy shows that were offered. Since then, I have switched stables once more and now I own a fifteen hand Morgan gelding.

What do your parents think about you riding horses and the potential of getting hurt?

On the aspect of me riding, I know my parents have slightly different views, though they both, like to see me enjoying what I love. My mother is more of the one who encourages me and understands this better than my father. (She used to ride). My father, however, likes the fact that riding keeps my attention onto horses instead of the other two legged creatures many other girls are always chasing after (aka boys), though it doesn’t stop the fact that I do have a lot of guy friends.

Well I really don’t know in full what my parents think about the potential of me getting hurt. They do know that riding is dangerous and that you have to be careful, so I know that they do worry a bit. But they do know that this is something I love to do, and as long as I don’t do anything stupid, they will always be there for support and encouragement.

What are you interested in horse-wise?

Currently I do hunter on the flat with my horse, but I do have plans to expand what I do. I also LOVE to jump! I’ve been without a trainer, so I’ve had to train my horse to jump by myself. After that, I plan to get into the higher levels of jumping, dressage, and eventing, and possibly gabble in the other disciplines as well. I also love training horses, and am currently looking for a prospect and found one. All I need now is the cash! ;D

What are your equestrian-related goals?

Currently, my long term goal is to compete at the grand prix level of eventing, jumping, and dressage by the time I’m eighteen or nineteen. I realize that in order to accomplish this, I’m going to have to work really hard within the next four years to be able to do so. I’m also going to need a lot of hard work and dedication to be able to reach that, but I also realize that I need to be prepared financially. So, I’ve decided that I need to get my name out there, and hopefully get a sponsor in the near future.

I do have short term goals too. One of them is to be able to actually take an unbroken horse and do all of the training myself. I’d probably train it to be an eventer. And without a trainer, this short term goal will actually help in the long run.

What do you think instructors should do for new, young riders?

Well, I really haven’t been with an instructor for a year or so now, but there always have been a few things I have noticed. First off, listen to the rider and get to know them. Know what their comfort level is and the rate at which they improve. Also realize that those people have probably never rode before or heard any of the terms we use. So, you’ll have to break the steps up into an easy to understand program and explain the steps in great detail. Consider yourself training a young horse to jump. You wouldn’t immediately point them at a three foot jump and expect them to clear it easily. You have to break it down. The same goes for the rider. Also, encourage the student to ask questions. Some might be too timid to actually speak up, so offer opportunities and watch their body language. Basically, consider yourself a new rider who knows nothing, and then ask yourself "did it make sense with that mind set?"

What type of training methods do you use?

I don't use clicker training. It just doesn't seem to work for me, but I'm all for the positive reinforcement. I think the main thing about my training method is that I try to have the horse figure something out by himself without the interference of the rider. That mostly means ground work, and at times we do a lot of it! Also, I strongly am into the whole "with every horse, you actually have two horses you have to train. The left horse, and the right horse."

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To watch videos of Kelsey, check out her YouTube Channel by clicking here.

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What kind of person takes on the daunting responsibility of running a horse rescue and sanctuary?

2010-08-01T17:52:00.034-05:00

What kind of person takes on the daunting responsibility of running a horse rescue and sanctuary? The work is heart breaking, gut wrenching, but oh, so rewarding to be able to help, care for and rehabilitate animals that have been tossed aside, abused or have nowhere else to go. Watching
Darla Cherry as she took over the reins for Meadow Haven Horse Rescue in Nixon, TX in October, 2008, has been amazing and the result of her dedication to this commitment is a story in itself.
Darla has been training and breeding horses for 35 years and her dream had always been to establish a horse rescue program. When the opportunity arose to take over Meadow Haven (previously located in Medina, TX), she was quick to act and moved the facility to her home in Nixon. Today she is living her dream with her family by her side.

Meadow Haven strives to find nurturing, forever homes for adoptable animals in their care. Animals are not euthanized except in cases of terminal illness, unbearable pain and suffering or dangerous and irreversible behavior problems. She has over forty rescue residents on the property and each day is filled with the care and feeding for these animals. Sourcing for hay and seeking donations to help maintain this 501(c) 3 non-profit organization is more than a full time job, it is a lifetime endeavor. Donations of money, time and feed, are desperately needed. The website www.meadowhavenrescue.com is filled with information on the residents and the facility. Some of the horses are also listed on www.petfinder.com and Meadow Haven has its own Facebook page as well.

Although faced with her personal challenge of being diagnosed with MS in 2000, Darla refuses to let this slow her down in her mission of caring for and/or finding good forever homes for her charges.

There are so many touching stories of horses that have come to Meadow Haven:

(pictured: Max, before and after) Eddy, whose previous owners failed to care for a tumor growing in his eye. Had they taken him to the vet for care, it could have been removed for a very nominal fee, but they did not. By the time he was taken to MHR the tumor was so large, his entire eye had to be removed. Eddy is now a happy resident at MHR who has fully adjusted to his “mono vision” and would make an excellent companion horse.

Daisy (pictured at the bottom, smiling) is a permanent resident of MHR, who was beaten and abused by owners because she was non-responsive and disobedient. Darla discovered that Daisy was deaf in both ears and blind in one eye (it was reported that she was shot in the face with a paint gun). Today Daisy is happy and healthy. Accordingly to Darla, “It’s as if she has forgiven humans for the abuse and is just content to be here."

Cecil, a donkey, was seized by law enforcement. He had been dragged behind a truck because he ran away and had horrible cuts and abrasions over his body. After much care and medical attention, Cecil was adopted and now has a happy home in Skidmore, TX.

Star, whose story was on Horsetuner recently, came to Meadow Haven with a life threatening breathing/airway problem. She received a permanent tracheotomy and now lives a full and happy life in Rockport, TX.

There are many other horses with stories that will break your heart, yet fill you with happiness when you hear their tales and then see their recoveries. Most of these animals are adoptable or in need of foster homes. Feel free to visit the website www.meadowhavenrescue.com or stop by Meadow Haven if you're in the Nixon area. Who knows?... maybe you’ll find the perfect horse just waiting for you there!

Article by MHR Volunteer: Diane Davis

Meadow Haven Rescue
4204 County Road 444
Nixon, TX 78140
Cell: (830) 305-9031

Do you suspect an animal is being mistreated in your area?

Here is an article to help you recognize the signs: Signs That an Animal Might Be Abused.

Click here to learn How to Report Animal Abuse.

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Dressage and Western Riding: Finding Harmony” by Mary Anne Campbell

2010-07-23T12:16:00.019-05:00

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Let’s clear up some urban—or rural? Legends. In the old days, a cowboy would throw a leg over a horse because distances were real, and riding beat walking. When you were ranching having the right horse made your life a whole lot easier. “Work horse” was not just a clever saying; it was what it was all about. To be a top hand meant you had to know not just cattle, you had to know horses. Knowing horses meant quickly and efficiently being able to train horses for very practical reasons. The western tradition came primarily through equestrian traditions from Spain. Riding came from Europe and the Spanish had the strongest European cultural influence in the old west.

In the 16th century the Western type of saddle was the most commonly used form the world over, and more accurately might have been called a Moorish saddle. If you study the history of tack you’ll see that the Kings of England rode to the crusades in saddles closer to a hornless western rig than a modern English one. That postage stamp thing came into vogue in the 19th century, as concerns about riding with weapons and tools gave way to a need to cover distance quickly. Lighter tack made sense if you were racing or jumping.

The thing we’ve lost in today’s highly divided riding world is that sense of why the original divisions began. Training on ranches was practical, so was training for the military. The reasons they thinned down our English saddles or put a horn on our western ones were entirely about real world, practical questions, not at all about fashion or popularity or the kind of music the radio on our car is set to play.

We tend to choose our disciplines based on what we’re familiar with, and then we make a sort of religion out of liking what we do and putting down what they do. English pleasure riders think western pleasure riders are weird, western trail riders think hunter jumpers should get a life, eventing enthusiasts think dressage riders like to watch paint dry, endurance riders think cutting horse cowboys are uneducated rednecks, reiners think dressage riders are effete, stuck up, over controlled snobs. Am I right? Is there any point in continuing through the gaited horses, the racers, the driving horses and the back yard ponies?

But one thing you hear consistently, no matter where you look, is that dressage is the basis for all riding. So, just imagining for a moment that this is actually true… what does it mean? That thing you see in Olympic dressage hasn’t really got jack to do with cutting cattle, does it?

Dressage is a French word: it means training. That’s all. Just…training. And in France, for two hundred years, horse training was raised to a very high art through classical ideas. When they say riding is based on dressage, what they meant was French classical dressage. All 20th century American cavalry riders from 1912 on studied French classical dressage. After the civil war made it clear that we needed a unified cavalry training method, the US sent envoys to every European cavalry school, and the French method was what our military chose.

Classical ideas, by definition, come from ancient Greece. Greek mathematicians noticed that what they thought was beautiful was also often almost magically functional. What a good classical French dressage trainer does is help the horse learn to carry himself in a position that supports his rider well, and that makes it easiest to do the activity he’ll undertake. If that is racing or hauling loads, the horse will need to be inclined toward the forehand. If it is cutting cattle or being used as a swordsman’s mount in war, he has to rock back onto the hind quarters to permit agile movement. The early horsemen who explored these ideas weren’t snobs; they were soldiers and cavalry officers whose lives depended on their horses. The old masters training concerns were real world, practical, life and death concerns. Fashion was always the province of people with too much time on their hands.

Xenophon, the Greek author who is almost always cited as the foundational text for dressage, said “Anything forced cannot be beautiful.” Any animal that is tense and tight can’t be athletic and supple at the same time. This is as true for the horse as for the rider. So, in today’s world, why do competition riders look so uptight? That has to do with focusing on control instead of on harmony, on precision rather than flow. Riding is a relationship. In relationships where one partner is always right and the other is always kept subordinate, the gift of the relationship is lost.

When the revolution tore through France, people were justifiably angry with the monarchy and they became terribly violent against everything aristocratic. Anything that looked noble was attacked, and the high art of riding looked very noble. It was “dumbed down” by the 19th century French military to make it more common. All competitive English riding, and German classical riding too, is based on or heavily influenced by 19th century military riding. That’s what you see in the Olympics. It’s not French classical dressage, it’s highly developed German military riding.

And there was something wonderful in the classical French method, something shared, and something really practical that has been submerged under the cacophony of modern competition. Modern riders in any discipline can turn back to the old French classical ideas to develop a sense of harmony in motion, a seat that follows the horse, a horse that follows the rider, and a truly fun and fulfilling relationship for both.

Good riding is good riding, “and it don’t make no nevermind about the saddles or the hats.” In real classical training we find what Tom Dorrance called ‘true unity’, and that unity, that sense of harmony, is what real dressage offers.

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About the Author:
Mary Anne Campbell, Snohomish, Washington

Born and raised in Oregon, Mary Anne Campbell has spent a lifetime involved in horses. She’s always been interested in what was real in both western and english ideas. As a professional, she managed Grand Prix showjumpers, ran a stud farm, and taught english and western riding. Always continuing to learn, Mary Anne was introduced to Tom Dorrance’s work through clinics with his student, Dave Williams. In 2004 she began an intense study in classical dressage with Craig Stevens.

Craig Stevens is a classical dressage master centered near Seattle who teaches clinics all over the world. He teaches extraordinary riding to ordinary people, and trains horses of any breed to very high levels.

Ms. Campbell is now co-director of Craig Stevens’ National School of Academic Equitation, located just north of Seattle. www.classical-equitation.com.

Photo: 17^th century Mexican Haciendado saddle from the Neill collection. These saddles were used in California, Texas, and New Mexico. Photo is by David Stoecklein, from his 2005 book “Saddles of the West” published by Stoecklein Publishing.

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PROTECTIVE VESTS -- To Buy or Not to Buy

2010-07-12T16:38:00.020-05:00

As we all know, equestrian activities are potentially dangerous. It’s not “if” you get hurt it’s really “when” you get hurt. The best thing you can do for yourself is to be prepared. For example, run through scenarios with your trainer or with experienced equestrians; stretch before riding and practice rolling out of a fall.

As many of you know, this week I took a spill and broke a couple ribs. I know that several people were trying to be helpful—asking me if I needed help with this particular horse….if I could use some tips…but to be quite honest I found this to be a little…well…annoying. Not because I can’t accept help or criticism but because a spill could happen to anyone, and isn't a reflection on someone's ability per se.

Honestly, I am very happy with the reaction I had to the situation…it could have been a lot worse....but that’s what it was—a reaction. I didn’t make a conscious decision to lose my balance when the horse spooked….something that could have happened to the most experienced of riders. Personally, I have seen more damage done to people when they fought to stay on the spooking, bolting or bucking horse than falling or jumping off to the side. I’m a pretty cautious rider in general with a lucky track record. In about 18 years of riding, instructing and training, I have only fallen off about 5 times….and only 2 of them with any notable injury. This particular injury, however, has made me seriously consider buying a protective vest. So I did a little research and I wanted to share my finding with you…

A Couple Things….

I was a little worried about the extra weight of the vest, but upon research, many of the vests are specifically fabricated for event riders, where extra weight is critical to performance. Most of these vests are under 4 pounds (an extra weight no doubt, but manageable.) Being in south Texas, in temperatures that often exceed 90 degrees, I was pleased to find out that most of the vests boast porous materials that let the body breathe.

While the protective vests are excellent at protecting you from projectiles, such as a hoof or a fence, by dispersing the impact, they do not protect you from being rolled on and thus crushed by your 1100 pound (let’s say) horse...a scary thought, but something to keep in mind. Vests aren’t a guarantee that you will be safe in all circumstances, just like you could get kicked in the face while wearing your certified helmet.

Moreover, the vests do not cover your hips or the very bottom of your tailbone and spine. Spinal cord injuries including paralysis could occur while the rider is wearing a protective vest. They do, however, give extra protection to your vital organs such as heart, stomach, lungs and the bones in your torso, such as your upper vertebrae, rib cage, collar bones, and sternum.

What Are They Made Of?

First worn by bull and bronc rider Cody Lambert in the early 1990’s, the protective vest—now worn by many equestrians, bull riders and rodeo clowns—is credited with saving countless men and women from serious injury in the arena. The protective vest offers protection from direct trauma (such as when a rider is stomped on by a bull or horse or hit with a horn) by absorbing shock and dissipating the impact across the body as apposed to one focused area.

Once famous for containing Kevlar (a synthetic material developed by the DuPont Company in the 1960's), modern vests contain a new age of materials. Below is a brief description of common materials currently being used inside protective vests:

High Density Foam

High density foams used in protective vests are engineered to absorb and distribute impact. One type of high density foam used in some riding vests is Confor foam. Originally developed for the United States Space program (Gotta love NASA!) as a material to be used in shock absorbing seats, Confor foam is superb at absorbing shock and dissipating impact without bottoming out or collapsing. It is an “open cell foam” that is breathable, with a soft feel that conforms to the rider's body. Upon extreme impact the Confor foam recovers slowly but completely…like the memory foam for mattresses.

Spectra Shield -- Ballistic Material

Spectra Shield is NOT a woven material like many ballistic materials (including Kevlar), but is instead made from layers of unidirectional fibers held in place by resins. (A ballistic vest, bulletproof vest or bullet-resistant vest is an item of personal armor that helps absorb the impact from firearm-fired projectiles and shrapnel from explosions, and is worn on the torso.)

Spectra Shield is 10 times stronger than steel, extremely light weight, and is used in everything from soft, concealable body armor to hard limousine doors and panels. Spectra Shield protective vests for riders offer comfort and flexibility while still providing high-impact protection.

Protecting Your Protective Vest

Many of the disclaimers I read pointed out that due to temperature of storage and age, the vests may become less protective.

“The protective qualities of all protective vests and body protectors may be compromised by age, use and exposure to temperature extremes. Store protective vests and body protectors in well ventilated areas and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for cleaning and maintenance.”

This warning was stressed with vests that have built-in air bags like the “Hit-Air”Vest. This "Hit-Air" vest, while much more expensive than traditional ballistic vests, offers another form of protection--inflatable air bags that balloon when the cord, which attaches to your saddle is pulled. Personally, I think I would be afraid of this vest inflating by accident. You? (See video.)

So know you know a little about the vests and what they are made of, but now you might be asking yourself: “What specific vest should I buy?”

Price: Most protective vests are in the price range of $130-400. Not cheap, but cheaper than an ER visit.

Brands: There are many brands to choose from, but Tipperary seems to be very popular with many equestrians—reviewing them positively for overall comfort.

Colors: I was pretty surprised to find a slue of colors to choose from. I had expected only black to be available. You can also buy vests with custom piping and personal monograms.

Accreditation: Look for a vest that is approved by the ASTM International (ASTM)—The American Society for Testing and Materials--they are an international standards organization that develops and publishes voluntary consensus technical standards for a wide range of materials, products, systems, and services.

They make vests for a variety of disciplines.
For example:

• Recreational Riding –
For example: Tipperary Ride-Lite Vest ($130)
• Competitive Riding –
For example: Rodney Powell Elite Series 6 Body Armour ($200)
• Competitive Riding—
Hit-Air Protective Vest ($400 plus replacement CO2 cartridges--$70 for 3)
• Event Riding—
Tipperary Custom Eventer Protective Riding Vest ($300)
(Pictured on left.)

To sum up, equestrian activities are a potential danger to your health. You have to be careful and cautious whenever you’re around horses. Sooner or later, you will most likely be injured, whether it be on the ground or on horseback. More often than not, horse-related accidents are not caused from horses intending to be malicious. As riders, we must remember, horses are flight animals. They will run from fear. You can spend years trying to reduce this response in your horse with relatively successful results, but the flight response is innate…and sometimes “horses will be horses.”

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*Stay tuned for a follow up entry. I contacted the Product Development Director from Phoenix Performance Inc., the company who makes the Tipperany Protective Vests for real life testimonials.

THE IMPORTANCE OF GROUNDWORK by Kim Gould-Wende

2010-07-09T15:30:00.024-05:00

Today I want to share with you the importance of groundwork and how it will benefit you and your horse when you start riding. I believe that groundwork when executed properly develops a trust between you and the horse, builds the foundation needed for under saddle work and it allows you to introduce new concepts to your horse in a safe way.

I knew that groundwork was important, but I did not know how important it was until I got hurt in a riding accident. In 2000 I decided to take a new horse of mine that I had not done any groundwork with to a clinic. During the clinic we were doing a very simple exercise and my horse got bumped from behind and he went into a huge bucking fit. I truly believe that if he would have been prepared properly through groundwork this would not have happened as I found out later that he was sensitive around his hindquarters.

When I did the exercise of putting the rope around his hindquarters and then getting him to follow the feel to come around he would scoot his hind end forward really fast which told me he had some fear there.

When doing groundwork exercises remember to be consistent in the cues that you use. You will use the same cues on the ground that you use for riding. For example when lunging your horse if you kiss for the canter be sure to use this same cue when you are riding. The horse has to respect you and the only time they are allowed to come into your personal space is when you invite them but they have to be respectful.

Groundwork also gets a horse to thinking which is using the left side of the brain. It helps the horse to gain confidence in you and will also develop your confidence setting up a win-win situation. It is very important that you are the leader and that your horse respects you. If you are unsure about how to do proper groundwork exercises be sure to get with a professional that you can watch or take lesson from. Be sure to get testimonials from other people about this trainer to make sure this will be a good fit for you and your horse.

Examples of Groundwork Exercises and How They Translate to Riding:

Leading or working from both right and left side helps to stimulate both sides of the brain making for a more balanced horse.

Backing with a soft feel - get the horse to understand with a halter first and then move to the bridle before you get on their back.

"Whoa" - Use the word "whoa" to get a stop then you can refine this when riding.

Neck Reining.

Moving Fore Quarters and Hind Quarters - when teaching this from the ground make sure you place your hand in the area that your foot would be when riding.

Side-Passing - after the horse understand moving the Fore Quarters and Hind Quarters you can combine this to get the horse to side-pass.

Ground Driving - this gets them used to ropes around their legs and a direct pull on the rein for a turn plus stopping and backing

Flexing at the pole.

Flexing the Neck helps to improve responsiveness, steering and reinforces the concept of yielding to pressure.

Going over a bridge get them prepared to step on things that make a noise and if you have a step up bridge it also prepares them for trailer loading.

Spooky Objects you can introduce them on the ground first.

Teach them to lower their head as this reinforces giving to pressure, this makes it easier to put the halter or bridle on.

With my strong belief in proper training I feel it is crucial to get a solid start with any horse you are working with from the ground up. My programs offer solid foundations for both horse and owner. It is my passion to work with all who are truly interested in developing their horsemanship skills and in forming a lasting bond with their horse. Please feel free to visit my website for information on my training methods and schedule. It is only through proper training will you find the bond of friendship between you and your horse.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kim Gould-Wende is a professional trainer and clinician having trained and competed for over 30 years. Kim is the owner of Passionate Horsemanship and Elite Performance Ponies. She teaches people how to use clicker training combined with natural horsemanship. Passionate Horsemanship and Elite Performance Ponies is located in Merkel, Texas. www.passionatehorsemanship.com

< click to enlarge image.

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LINK TIP :: Horsetrip.com -- Horse Motels, Horse Vacations, etc.

2010-07-05T21:20:00.004-05:00

This is a link sent over by Diane Davis. Love this. A great resource! Check out www.horsetrip.com!

"GIVE ME 5!" :: KYLEY DILUIGI & The Trick Ponies of Chincoteague

2010-07-03T08:00:00.018-05:00

My name is Kyley DiLuigi and I live in Downingtown, Pennsylvania. I've spent my entire life around horses, competing and training horses in eventing, dressage, polocrosse, English mounted games, and even hunters. For most of my youth I implemented what I would call traditional training methods that I gained through 4-H, Pony Club, and various instructors. It wasn't until a troubled Chincoteague Pony landed in my lap that I started to change my entire approach to working with horses.

I met Chincoteague Minnow when I was 18 and he was 10. I had surpassed the competition level of my childhood pony, whom I still competed in english mounted games, and a local family offered to lend me their Chincoteague pony that they didn't currently have use for. I didn't know much about him except that he had originally come from the wild pony roundup on Assateague Island as a foal and that the home his owners had purchased him from was not ideal. I later learned that he had been kept in unfit living conditions, and was found with untrimmed feet, a thin frame, dull coat, and a sad look in his eye. His owners brought him home with them the same day. He spent a year re cooperating, but didn't ever really have a “job” so they decided to send him to me. The moment I laid eyes on him I fell in love.

It didn't take long for me to discover that Minnow had deeply routed trust issues. He was scared of pretty much everything and dealt with his fear through pure avoidance, and when he was really pushed past his comfort zone he resorted to his instinct of flight. His heavily set neck was no match for me and all I could do in these situations was hang on for dear life. A year later after one particularly bad episode with Minnow at a regional pony club competition I decided it was time to look into other avenues of training, as mcurrent approach just wasn't working. I reconnected with a childhood trainer who was now working with the Parelli method.

I spent a few months dabbling with Parelli, but something about it still wasn't getting through to Minnow. That fall I decided to take Minnow to college with me in the hopes that more personal time with me would help him to trust me. As luck would have it, just before I left I stumbled upon a trick training book. Thinking it might be fun to see if I could teach Minnow a pony trick I set out working on the first few skills. As I began teaching Minnow to give me a kiss something amazing began to happen, I realized that through teaching Minnow this simple task I was creating a language with him. A special language that was just for the two of us. As he mastered the first few tricks in the book, (kiss me, take it, shake hands) I started to see a change in him. Everyday I showed up to the farm he was more excited to see me. He began offering me behaviors and genuinely became curious about his surroundings.

I started to research more about trick training and began scheming about how I could transfer this training over to my riding. I then discovered clicker training and everything began to build faster and faster. I think the real breakthrough came with Minnow when I was able to clicker train him to not be afraid of our mounted games equipment that made noises. The day he stood still as I shook a plastic bottle filled with sand around his head I knew we were onto something.

Over the next 4 years I worked with Minnow solely through clicker training. He learned trick after trick, and we continued to use the clicker to enhance our riding. In 2007 I had nearly run out of things to teach him. At the time I was in art school, so one day I decided to bring out an easel and paint to the farm to see if I could teach Minnow to paint. A few minutes later and Minnow had created his very first masterpiece. Over the next few months we painted and painted, and Minnow began to get more creative each time. As the paintings started to pile higher and higher, and I ran out of people to gift them to, I decided to set up a website so that Minnow could share his gift with the world. Minnow sold his very first painting in March of 2007 on PaintingPony.com and he never looked back.

A year later I was devastated to find out that Minnow had developed ringbone and would have to be retired from riding and competition. I was saddened to loose my partner, but knew that he had something much more special to share with the world. Since then Minnow has gone on to promote himself as a trick pony, as we travel and perform throughout the East Coast of the US. Each year we attend the Annual Pony Penning on Chincoteague Island, where Minnow once scrambled onto the shore as a foal, so that Minnow can paint and perform for visitors. Minnow ignites a spark in everyone he meets, and I enjoy watching as he helps little girls and boys discover a lifelong passion for horses. I know now that Minnow's purpose in life is much greater than just being my best friend, although he's always been very good at that job too.

Pictured from Left to Right: Chincoteague Minnow, Chesapeake Boomerang,
Chesapeake Lightning) & Dachshund, Ammo.

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To learn more about Kyley and her amazing ponies, please visit www.PaintingPony.com
To watch more of Kyley's videos on YouTube click here.

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YOGA STRETCHES FOR HORSES :: April Battles, Equine Communicator, Greenwood, California

2010-06-27T21:14:00.013-05:00

April Battles of Holistic Horse Works

Greenwood, California

"...As a trainer of horses, April noticed the horses that were in some kind of discomfort or pain were labeled the ''problem horses,'' hard to train and that people were quick to get rid of them. She learned to listen to the horses that came to her for training and worked on the underlying issues. April discovered that, often, at the heart of each "trouble horse" that was in pain, was actually a willing equine partner eager to do what was asked.

When April was introduced to endurance riding, she discovered a new aspect to physical challenges faced by horses. As she thrilled to riding a willing partner that worked hard--truly, an equine athlete--small things could start a painful "ball" rolling. For instance, a spasm in the hind end would cause the front of the horse to have to pull harder. She noticed that the horse started to compensate, resulting in a ripple effect. As April committed to sleuthing for the source and resolving the issue at its origin, the rest of the horse came back into balance. The true equine athlete was restored, able to use 100% of his body..."
read more on her website

To learn more about April and her methods, please visit:
www.holistichorseworks.com

MOBILE UPLOAD :: Wild Ponies on Asseteaque Island

2010-06-20T20:56:00.013-05:00

This was sent in to Horsetuner by Anna Druzcz. It was taken today, June 20th, of the Wild Ponies on Asseteaque Island, which covers Maryland and Virginia! Both MD and VA sides of Assateague have wild ponies, each has a herd of about 160. A fence at the Maryland/Virginia state line separates the two herds.

The wild ponies of Assateague are usually seen in groups of about 5-10 animals.The National Park Service and Fish & Wildlife Service have conducted resource management studies to ensure the wild horse population is maintained at a level the seashore environment of Assateague can tolerate.

Learn more by visiting: www.assateagueisland.com

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TRAINER PROFILE :: PAUL WALKER, El Bolsón, Argentina

2010-06-16T11:17:00.041-05:00

View Larger Map

"My name is Paul Walker, I live in El Bolsón in southern Argentina and I have trained horses since I was a teenager. My main job is to start training from birth to the first two to three months. Right now I work on a farm called Estancia Lago Escondido (Hidden Lake). I am training 7 crossbreeds of Appaloosa, Criollo and Paso Peruano. The horses haven't been handled until I start working with them in the round pen.

I do all my training bitless. I believe a horse can learn everything and much more without anything in his mouth. I am originally from Chile, and in Chile I trained horses that were warm-blood studs, Chilean rodeo horses, pleasure riding horses and polo ponies. Here in Argentina (with a friend), we organize 3 day workshops where up to 120 people have assisted!

To learn more about me and my training methods, please visit: www.amanse.cl. I love horses, and am grateful to Alicia for letting me share my ideas with the Horse Tuner."

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BITLESS BRIDLE (From the website):

In my work with horses over the years, I have seen proof that horses learn much faster if we remove unnecessary pain from their training. The bit is known to be a constant source of pain, and aside from the ethical considerations about causing harm to another species, the horse's reaction to the bit responds to the ancient fear of humans when confronted with the power and strength of horses. Real safety, communication, and control of a horse is only truly achieved through mutual education. The Bitless Bridle is a reliable and safe tool to be used in all phases of education, breeds and ages. It is ideal for starting young horses and assuring a healthy and contented horse.

+ Paul's YouTube Channel

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Full-time College Student....and Ranch Owner!

2010-06-14T12:46:00.015-05:00

PROFILE: Sarah Coquat
Aransas Pass, Texas

Down Highway 35, on Country Road 99 there sits a very special ranch with a remarkable owner. Sarah Coquat, a fifth year senior at Texas A&M University, has put her studies to good use on her co-owned and self-operated cattle/horse ranch. This early twenty-something’s ranch specializes in Quarter Horses, Paint Horses and Charolais Cattle. Sarah is majoring in Animal Science and Entomology and hopes to further her already extensive knowledge of breeding cattle and horses in graduate school.

Not only does Sarah go to school full-time, but she travels back and forth in order to care for her eleven horses and fifty-some head of cattle. Sarah’s deep understanding of genetics is apparent in her animals’ tremendous beauty and textbook conformation.

If you live in the Texas Coastal Bend, and are looking for beautiful horses to grace your ranch, we’re sure Sarah can help you find your perfect match…even if you aren’t looking to buy, make sure you stop by www.coquatranch.com to see Sarah’s newest and cutest furry additions!

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TRAILER LOADING YOUR HORSE by Kali Vanagas

2010-06-09T15:43:00.029-05:00

Trailing your horse can be challenging for even the most experienced horse-person.

Click here to listen to Kali's podcast about trailing your horse. (41 min)

GUEST BLOGGER: Kali Vanagas
Horse Trainer, Riding Instructor & Owner of Pony Pros, Bend, Oregon.

"My name is Kali Vanagas. I live in Bend, Oregon, USA. I grew up riding on the A-circuit in hunter/jumpers but today train with natural horsemanship and clicker training. I call my horsemanship practice EQxpressionism because I communicate with the horse through expressions and use this dialogue to create artistic expression. I enjoy working with rescue horses and Mustangs, and am especially fond of colt starting. From April 2008 - April 2009, I trained over 100 rescue horses to be caught and haltered using these methods, and also taught approximately 60 beginners to continue the horses' training using the same techniques. I have the privilege of starting 5-10 ranch raised colts annually. These colts get their feet trimmed twice a year but are otherwise unhandled. I have a horsemanship program in Central Oregon where I teach kids to train ponies and work with adults on everything from natural dressage to trick training. My personal horse is a BLM Mustang who I trained at liberty, loose in a pasture with other horses, through all her ground work up to sitting on her back. Ilo later moved to a jumping hackamore for ease of communication, but she will never be bitted as my program is bitless and tree-cautious.

2010 has been a busy year for me - I started a natural horsemanship show circuit, which has been very appreciated; published a book of interviews with 7 trainers from around the world; released a training dvd for kids and ponies; got to perform with my students in front of 2,000 people; and was just recently interviewed by our local newspaper about my scholarship program, which helps students with learning disabilities like dyslexia and ADHD learn horsemanship.

I'm looking forward to more adventures and would like to thank Alicia for the opportunity to share my perspective on HorseTuner."

More about Kali & Pony Pros?
Visit: www.ponypros.net

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TRAINER PROFILE :: IVY SCHEXNAYDER, Rockford, Illinois

2010-06-03T10:05:00.023-05:00

Hey, everyone, my name is Ivy Schexnayder. I am 23 years old and I have been training horses since I was 16. When I first started training horses, I specialized in training gaited horses to gait. Now I specialize in other things as well, such as trick training, clicker training, positive reinforcement, dressage, and liberty training.

I am passionate about horses. I am also very competitive, but I never wanted to compete in the normal, organized competitions. So, to show off my horse, I had to train my horse to do something different. Hence, the trick and liberty training. I have learned almost everything I know on my own. I read a lot of horse books on various subjects and then go try it out on my horses.

General Jackson -- 6 year old Quarter Horse/ Paint cross, 15 hh

Jackson is my main horse. He does tricks, liberty work, and some dressage and reining. He is a super calm horse. He performs at shows just as if he was at home. He really does make me look good!

He knows a variety of tricks including bowing, lying down, nodding his head “yes,” shaking his head “no,” rearing, pedestal work, and Spanish walk. We are also working on training the piaffe on the long lines.

Jackson is a fantastic horse to work with. He tries so hard for me, over and over again. If you watch the video the balancer (pronounced bal-on-say) and the video of training the piaffe, you will see him work so hard for me. This year, he has learned so much, especially in the area of dressage.

Why I love
Liberty Work

I love working with a horse at liberty. You can find out what your horse really thinks of you. Most horses don’t want to be with their owners, given the choice, especially if there is fresh grass to eat. At liberty, you need to let the horse come to you on his own. This has helped me develop patience and a good relationship with my horse.

When at liberty, the horse learns that he is free to make his own choices. Most of the choices a horse will initially make, are not the ones we would like. But we need to recognize how much our horse can tell us when they are at liberty and free to make their own choices.
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To learn more about Ivy as well as watch videos of her with Jackon, go to: www.IvysHorses.com

Trail Ride First Aid Kit :: What to include for Rider & Horse

2010-05-25T21:54:00.022-05:00

While we all think we're invincible at some point in our lives, the one place we shouldn't take chances is miles from the barn on a trail ride. Take a lesson from the Girl Scouts: "Always Be Prepared!"

I have been doing a fair amount of trail riding lately, and while I'm almost embarrassed to admit I don't always carry a first aid kit with me, I know I'm not the only one. Thank God, in year's past, when I have needed something in an emergency (I've only had a few major emergencies, but many minor ones...) I have had a first aid kit handy.

When I'm going on a trail ride, I like to have a few things on my person, and other things in my saddle bag--because sometimes horse and rider become separated and getting your hands on your saddle bag might not be possible. I know it's sorta dorky, but for items on me, I use a "fannie-pack" (Hulk Hogan would be proud). I wear it close to my body, usually on the small of my back. A backpack is too large, bulky, and in the summer months, too hot. Don't put anything that can spear you (scissors, knives, etc.) in your fannie-pack, because if you do fall off, you don't want to make your injuries worse...or even fatal!

Saddle bags come in many different forms...from leather to nylon. The main thing, when it comes to saddle bags, is to make sure the items are SECURE, BALANCED and COMFORTABLE--for you and your horse. If you have 5 pounds of excess weight on your horse it's much better to divvy up your items into (2) 3.5 pound bags on either side of the saddle. Even a little imbalance can create saddle sores and/or stiffness in your horse's muscles. Envision the saddle bags while you're riding--walking, trotting and cantering. Will they bounce around a lot making your horse spook or uncomfortable? Before committing to a packing strategy, take a test ride around your arena or paddock. Are you good to go or should adjustments be made prior to heading out?

In my opinion, I think bags with zippers are better than bags with buckles; this is because some of the items in your kit will most likely be small, and can easily fall out of bags that just fasten at the top with buckles. I prefer saddle bags made of nylon to ones made of leather. Nylon bags are lighter, they are less clunky at faster gaits, they are typically water-resistant and lastly, they are usually washable.

Here is a list of things to include in your saddle bags. Make sure you personalize your list. If you have severe allergies, like me, perhaps you'll need to include a small bottle of Claritin, for example. (Read post about horse allergies.) This might look like a hefty list, but most of these items are small, and pack well.

GENERAL ITEMS:

Duct tape (I like to bring along a 1/2 used roll, because it's lighter.)
Bag of 12 inch zip-ties (My favorite item! These can be used for tons of things from securing pads to legs in a pinch to repairing a broken strap)
Clean bandanna
Bottle(s) of clean water (for flushing out wounds and drinking)
(2) Ace Bandages (doubles for horse or rider)
Climbing Hook (see right)
Package of portable baby wipes
Small, lightweight flashlight, with working batteries
Small, collapsible pocket knife
Emergency cash

HORSE SPECIFIC ITEMS:

Vet wrap (doubles for horse and rider)
Large gauze pads (can be cut down if need be)
Phenylbutazone ("Bute") tabs or paste
Betadine (diluted)
Hoof pick w/ brush
Insect repellent wipes
(2) 6 inch long pieces of a garden hose (in an event of a snake bite)
Pair of small, sharp scissors with safety tips (see right)
Lead rope (hang on its own saddle ring)

RIDER SPECIFIC ITEMS:

To wear:

Sunglasses with adjustable strap
Hat with 380 degree brim and adjustable strap

To bring:

Band-aids
Antibiotic ointment (like Neosporin)
Sun-screen
Chapstick
Eye drops / Visine
Tylenol / Aspirin / Ibuprofen, etc.
Medium to large safety pins
Small sewing kit (kept in small, secure Tupperware, not breakable plastic)
Insect repellent wipes
Afterbite ointment
Antihistamine (like Benedryl--in case of adverse side-effect from bee/wasp/red ant sting.)
Cell phone in protective, waterproof case.
Rain coat with hood (or poncho)
Durable snacks (mixed nuts for example.)
Map of the trail with highlighted route

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MAP OUT YOUR TRAIL AHEAD OF TIME

Check with park rangers, if applicable, to make sure the trail is clear and appropriate for horses. Ask if there are any obstacles to be aware of--rivers, bridges, traffic, etc. Review the route with your group, and carry the map with you on your person. Finally, make sure your horses are up for the length of ride you have planned. Ask yourself: Are they in shape? Do they have any medical concerns where a long trail ride is a danger to them or to you? If you are unsure, check with your veterinarian before heading out.

All of this might seem a little overkill to some, but it only takes one emergency to change your view. Always be prepared.
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Did I miss something?...OR...Do you have a story about a trail ride emergency?...Share it with us by commenting on this post or email it to: horsetuner@gmail.com

What to do if your horse is BITTEN BY A SNAKE

2010-05-23T20:42:00.019-05:00

Of all the snakes in the United States, only a few species are poisonous. They are (from left to right below): the Copperhead, Cottonmouth or Water Moccasin, and several varieties of Rattlesnakes and in the extreme southeast, the Coral Snake. Knowing what to do in the event of a bite could mean the difference between the life and death of your horse.

Click images to enlarge

"It all depends on where you live whether or not your horse is likely to be bitten by a poisonous snake. Rattlesnakes are the most likely species to strike; they are very aggressive. But, for the most part a snake doesn't bite unless you threaten him. When trail riding watch the path ahead of you, and avoid stepping over logs and going through thick brush where you can't see what's ahead of your horse.

Several factors determine the severity of the venom's affect on the horse. The size of the snake and the size of the horse, location of the bite, the health of the horse, and the time it takes to get treatment for your horse all decide how dangerous the bite will be. As a rule larger snakes have more venom to inject into their victims. Of course the smaller the horse the more harm can be done by the poison, so a foal is more likely to suffer severely than a full-grown horse. The most dangerous place for a horse to be bitten is on the face. That is because the swelling from the venom can cause suffocation. Unfortunately, that is the most likely place since the horse is apt to put is head down to look at the snake.

If the nostrils swell shut, a piece of garden hose inserted into the nostril could keep your horse's airway open. If you are trail riding and a poisonous snake bites your horse, do not gallop him home for help. Running will only increase the heart rate, speeding up the horse's blood circulation, and sending the poison throughout the body at faster rate. Keep your horse calm and walk him home. On a trail ride, the bite will probably be on the horse's leg, which is not normally fatal. The horse is such a large animal that the venom is reduced by the time it reaches vital organs. You should get veterinary help as soon as possible.

First aid until the vet arrives is to treat the bite like a puncture wound by washing it with soap and water and applying an antibacterial medication. The old advice of cutting a ‘X' and sucking out the blood is no longer recommended for horses or humans that have been bitten by a poisonous snake, because it increases the danger of infection. An antivenin is available, but very expensive. The veterinarian's treatment will include a tetanus shot and antibiotics. She or he might also give drugs to combat inflammation such as steroids. The vet will also look for signs of shock and treat accordingly.

-If Your Horse Does Have a Life-Threatening Reaction-

If your horse's whole body starts to swell, or if the horse has trouble breathing because swelling has obstructed its airways call your vet immediately. The vet may advise you give the horse an anti-inflammatory drug such as banamine or phenylbutazone to reduce the swelling. Keep the horse still and calm. If the air passage is closing pass a short length of garden hose down the nostril as a first aid measure until the vet arrives. This is something you ask your vet to show you how to do before you need the knowledge. The vet will also prescribe antibiotics and treat the wound as a puncture wound.

Factors that affect the severity of a snake bite to your horse include the amount of venom the snake injects, the size of the horse, the health of the horse (especially its immune system), and the location of the bite."

Citation: If a Snake Bites Your Horse, By Donna C. Smith

P.S. I Googled horse snake bites to get some images, but if you can imagine for a minute the worst, oozy wound...that will suffice. Yikes!

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Test Your General Equine Knowledge :: QUIZ

2010-05-23T13:09:00.026-05:00

Here are a few questions to test your general horse and equine sport knowledge. Check back next week, when I'll boldface the correct answers. (*Answers below, scroll down.)

1. In show jumping, what color blazer distinguishes an international competition?

a) Navy
b) Black
c) Red

2. What basic dressage move means that the horse is trotting or jogging in place?

a) Piaffe
b) Side-pass
c) Lope

3. What equine drug is used to treat a variety of aliments and is the general equivalent to ibuprofen for humans?

a) Betadine
b) Bute
c) Phenylbutazone
d) Both b & c

4. When should you call the vet?

a) For any bodily wound.
b) When the horse is bleeding profusely and it won't clot.
c) When the horse coughs 1 time and stops.
d) When my horse has watery diarrhea lasting more than 1 day.
e) Answers a and b
f) Answers b and d
g) None of the above

5. In general, what event is typically NOT associated with Western events?

a) Barrel Racing
b) Team Roping
c) Vaulting
d) Reining
e) None of the above

6. We know that an adult male horse is either a stallion or gelding, and an adult female horse is a mare, but what type of horse is a dam?

a) Female baby horse
b) Male baby horse
c) A sterile adult female horse
d) A mother of a horse
e) This is not a horse term

7. How many horse and pony breeds are there in the world?

a) 23
b) More than 350
c) Thousands and thousands
d) 52

8. In regards to equine coat genetics, which coats are the "base coats?"

a) Chestnut, black, and bay
b) Bay, black, and roan
c) Paint, black, and white
d) Roan, Black, and white

9. Currently, which is the most popular horse breed in the US?

a) Arabian
b) Morgan
c) Clydesdale
d) Percheron
e) Quarter Horse

10. What is the difference between a Paint and a Pinto?

a) Pinto describes the coloring while the Paint describes the specific breed.
b) A Paint has papers, while a Pinto does not.
c) A Paint can be a Pinto, but a Pinto might not be a Paint.
d) All of the above.
e) None of the above.

11. What does it mean when a horse has "Lethal Death Syndrome?"

a) It's a very aggressive horse, which is predominantly white in color.
b) It's a horse that should have been dark colored at birth, and through a mutation is born white with red eyes.
c) It's a autosomal genetic disorder most prevalent in the American Paint Horse.
d) It's when foals are born after the full 11-month gestation and externally appear normal, though they have all-white or nearly all-white coats and blue eyes.
e) Both c and d
f) Both a and d

12. True or False? A horse with "Lethal Death Syndrome" and a horse that is a "Dominant White" are the same thing.

13. The oldest horse was "Old Billy", a 19th-century horse that lived to the age of 62. In modern times, "Sugar Puff", who had been listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's oldest living pony, died in 2007, at what age?

a) 29
b) 35
c) 56
d) 75

14. At what "hand" does a pony become classified as a horse?

a) 14 hands
b) 14.2 hands
c) 15.5 hands
d) 17 hands

15. Which sequence of terms are the Western succession of gaits?

a) Walk, trot, canter
b) Walk, canter, gallop
c) Walk, trot, gallop
d) Walk, jog, lope, gallop

16. Which horse breed is NOT referred to as a "gaited horse?"

a) American Saddlebred
b) Arabian
c) Peruvian Paso
d) Tennessee Walker
e) Appaloosa
f) Missouri Foxtrotter
g) Answers b and e
h) None of the Above

17. While hot branding your horse might have been necessary in the 18th and 19th centuries, now, a more humane way to "track" your horse if it were to be stolen would be:

a) Tag the horse's ear.
b) Tattoo the horse's upper lip.
c) Have your vet insert a microchip in your horse's neck.
d) Do nothing. Who would steal a horse??

18. What is a popular home recipe for fly spray?

a) Liquid hand soap and water
b) Water, white vinegar and dish soap
c) Apple cider vinegar and water
d) Deet and water

19. In show jumping, when a horse knocks over a rail what is it called?

a) A penalty
b) A deduction
c) A fault
d) An accident
e) Nothing, that is the point to show jumping.

20. What breed of horse is famous for its intricate, synchronized routines and is closely associated with the Spanish Riding School of Vienna, Austria?

a) Hanoverian
b) Cleveland Bay
c) Lipizzaner
d) Trakehner
e) None of the Above

21. When a female horse and a male donkey are bred, which is the offspring referred to as?

a) A donkey
b) A mule
c) A hinny

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ANSWERS:

1. In show jumping, what color blazer distinguishes an international competition?

a) Navy
b) Black
c) Red

2. What basic dressage move means that the horse is trotting or jogging in place?

a) Piaffe
b) Side-pass
c) Lope

3. What equine drug is used to treat a variety of aliments and is the general equivalent to ibuprofen for humans?

a) Betadine
b) Bute
c) Phenylbutazone
d) Both b & c -- Phenylbutazone is the formal name for Bute.

4. When should you call the vet?

a) For any bodily wound.
b) When the horse is bleeding profusely and it won't clot.
c) When the horse coughs 1 time and stops.
d) When my horse has watery diarrhea lasting more than 1 day (this can be serious, and quickly dehydrate your horse of its vital fluids.)
e) Answers a and b
f) Answers b and d
g) None of the above

5. In general, what event is typically NOT associated with Western events?

a) Barrel Racing
b) Team Roping
c) Vaulting -- vaulting is a sport which consists of doing gymnastics on the back of the horse.
d) Reining
e) None of the above

6. We know that an adult male horse is either a stallion or gelding, and an adult female horse is a mare, but what type of horse is a dam?

a) Female baby horse
b) Male baby horse
c) A sterile adult female horse
d) A mother of a horse -- the foal's parents are referred to as the dam and the sire
e) This is not a horse term

7. How many horse and pony breeds are there in the world?

a) 23
b) More than 350
c) Thousands and thousands
d) 52

8. In regards to equine coat genetics, which coats are the "base coats?"

a) Chestnut, black, and bay
b) Bay, black, and roan
c) Paint, black, and white
d) Roan, Black, and white

9. Currently, which is the most popular horse breed in the US?

a) Arabian
b) Morgan
c) Clydesdale
d) Percheron
e) Quarter Horse

10. What is the difference between a Paint and a Pinto?

a) Pinto describes the coloring while the Paint describes the specific breed.
b) A Paint has papers, while a Pinto does not.
c) A Paint can be a Pinto, but a Pinto might not be a Paint.
d) All of the above. -- technically other breeds can have "pinto-like" markings, but generally "pinto" is a term that refers to paint-like horses that don't have registration papers.
e) None of the above.

11. What does it mean when a horse has "Lethal Death Syndrome?"

a) It's a very aggressive horse, which is predominantly white in color.
b) It's a horse that should have been dark colored at birth, and through a mutation is born white with red eyes.
c) It's a autosomal genetic disorder most prevalent in the American Paint Horse.
d) It's when foals are born after the full 11-month gestation and externally appear normal, though they have all-white or nearly all-white coats and blue eyes.
e) Both c and d
f) Both a and d

12. True or False? A horse with "Lethal Death Syndrome" and a horse that is a "Dominant White" are the same thing.

13. The oldest horse was "Old Billy", a 19th-century horse that lived to the age of 62. In modern times, "Sugar Puff", who had been listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's oldest living pony, died in 2007, at what age?

a) 29
b) 35
c) 56
d) 75

14. At what "hand" does a pony become classified as a horse?

a) 14 hands
b) 14.2 hands
c) 15.5 hands
d) 17 hands

15. Which sequence of terms are the Western succession of gaits?

a) Walk, trot, canter
b) Walk, canter, gallop
c) Walk, trot, gallop
d) Walk, jog, lope, gallop

16. Which horse breed is NOT referred to as a "gaited horse?"

a) American Saddlebred
b) Arabian
c) Peruvian Paso
d) Tennessee Walker
e) Appaloosa
f) Missouri Foxtrotter
g) Answers b and e
h) None of the Above

17. While hot branding your horse might have been necessary in the 18th and 19th centuries, now, a more humane way to "track" your horse if it were to be stolen would be:

a) Tag the horse's ear.
b) Tattoo the horse's upper lip.
c) Have your vet insert a microchip in your horse's neck. -- this is becoming more and more common in horses like it has for other pets. Chips last for 25 years plus.
d) Do nothing. Who would steal a horse??

18. What is a popular home recipe for fly spray?

a) Liquid hand soap and water
b) Water, white vinegar and dish soap -- it's pretty stinky, but it works! 1 part water, 1 part white vinegar, and 1 squirt of blue, Dawn dish soap.
c) Apple cider vinegar and water
d) Deet and water

19. In show jumping, when a horse knocks over a rail what is it called?

a) A penalty
b) A deduction
c) A fault -- each "fault" is worth 4 points, the person with the fewest amount of faults win. If there is a tie, there is an additional competition known as a "jump off" that goes by not only fewest faults, but the shortest amount of time.
d) An accident
e) Nothing, that is the point to show jumping.

20. What breed of horse is famous for its intricate, synchronized routines and is closely associated with the Spanish Riding School of Vienna, Austria?

a) Hanoverian
b) Cleveland Bay
c) Lipizzaner
d) Trakehner
e) None of the Above

21. When a female horse and a male donkey are bred, which is the offspring referred to as?

a) A donkey
b) A mule -- all male mules are born sterile, and most female mules.
c) A hinny

Before You Buy :: Evaluating Your Horse Budget

2010-05-23T12:20:00.023-05:00

To the best of their abilities and resources, a responsible horse owner:
(Also see this entry for more buying tips.)

1. Checks and tends to their animal(s) daily.
2. Observes their condition daily and takes immediate steps if a problem or illness is noted.
3. Supplies fresh water and monitors intake
4. Supplies appropriately nutritional feed on a regular, scheduled basis.
5. Has salt/mineral licks available, especially in summer heat
6. Has regularly scheduled farrier visits
7. Has annual medical check-up done by a qualified equine vet to include Coggins testing, recommended vaccinations and teeth exam.
8. Maintains a regular worming schedule
9. Protects horses as needed from insects (flies, mosquitoes, ticks, etc.) through fly spraying or other methods.
10. Supplies supplements as health needs dictate
11. Maintains a safe environment
12. Provides adequate shelter to protect from wind, rain, and sun
13. Doesn't buy a horse that they can't provide 1-12 for.

Here is a very simple guideline budget for basic horse care. All these are estimates and pricing can change with the weather (hay), the economy and the area where you live. It is based on one horse and does not include halters or any tack, shoes, medical emergencies, etc. – it is the bare essentials only.

+ Farrier-trims every 6 wks / @ $35/trim $315/yr
+ Daily Wormer / Though more expensive, it is more effective than paste and is vet recommended (For a 50 lb tub, the most economical purchase) $175/yr
+ Paste Wormer / 2x/yr for bots and tapeworm $22/yr
+ Feed-pellets or Sweet Feed / $525/yr, Will vary based on horse’s use/activity
+ Hay / Two 50# bales/wk (based on available pasture) at $8.00/bale $850/yr
+ Vet-Annual Shots / Coggins, overall check-up $200/yr
+ Health/Medical/Misc-fly Sprays, hoof pick, curry
brush and comb, salt lick, etc. / $250/yr

Total = $2,337/yr or approximately $200/month

Courtesy of Diane Davis.

Making Your Own Saddle Pads

2010-05-20T20:53:00.005-05:00

If you don't me personally, I sew a lot....so I decided to try my hand at making my own saddle pads. I wanted something relatively light weight and washable to put under my fleece pad...that keeps shifting...and my saddle started getting noticeable sweat marks from the horse's back. I looked to Ebay to purchase a "baby blanket pad" but when I factored in shipping costs and transit times, I just didn't have the patience.

Unlike some of my project ideas, this one went pretty smoothly, so I decided to share... First, I started with 2 and a half yards of pre-quilted cotton fabric from Walmart--45" inch wide. I kept the fabric folded as it would be on the bolt, and then folded it horizontally to make three equal pieces. I cut the folds on the left and right side, so the only folds were at the top. Then, I opened the three pieces and cut the fabric so that the edges were curved and also cut an indentation where the horses withers fall. With the "nice side" of the fabric on the inside, I sewed 1 inch all the way around the fabric, like you would a pillow--leaving a hole on one of the long sides of the fabric. Then, I turned the fabric right-side out. Next, I sewed all the way around the fabric about 1 inch from the outside, sewing closed the hole I used to flip it right side out. Finally, I added all the flat nylon rope to create billet and girth holders.

The ones I made will fit an English saddle or an Australian saddle, but I bet a Western saddle would work with them too. All in all the pads I made cost a about $14 a piece!

Vote for Local Horse Rescue :: Help Meadow Haven Horse Rescue win $10,000

2010-05-18T14:47:00.010-05:00

The Animal Rescue Site $100,000 Shelter Challenge - together with Petfinder. Starting May 17th the Animal Rescue Site is awarding $100,000 in grants to eligible Petfinder.com member rescue organizations to help animals. The grand prize is a $10,000 grant and there are many other prizes! Visit www.theanimalrescuesite.com to vote every day and learn more. You don't have to register, and voting is free.

*VOTE HERE

Meadow Haven Horse Rescue and Sanctuary
4204 County Road 444
Nixon, Texas 78140
830-305-9031

Available Horses

Star's Story: An Amazing Horse Gets a Second Chance to Breathe

2010-05-16T20:35:00.035-05:00

Guest Blogger: Diane Davis
Diane & her husband Bill have a beautiful ranch in Rockport, Texas. Currently Diane and Bill lovingly care for 10 horses from a variety of tumultuous backgrounds. / Meadow Haven Horse Rescue is in Nixon, Texas and currently has about 44 rescued horses on site.

"Hi, my name is Star and I am a nice looking (if I do say so myself), 12 year old sorrel AQHA mare with a story to tell...

I feel like my life just began about a year ago when my then owner decided she no longer wanted me and took me to Meadow Haven Horse Rescue in Nixon, Texas, where I met my guardian angel, Darla Cherry. I was suffering with a serious breathing condition and basically was unable to do anything but stand and try to get air into my lungs.

On June 25, 2009 some nice people came to visit me and suddenly big plans were being made. On June 29th I was loaded into a trailer and taken to San Antonio to Retama Equine Hospital where I was put into a roomy stall with shavings and my own fan. The next day Dr. Keith Huffman performed surgery and I got a
permanent tracheotomy. I wish Darla could have been there as I was finally able to draw my first breath without struggling. There are no horse words to describe how that felt! Though it was a bit sore and people came in numerous times a day to check on me and dress my wound, it was worth it. Then on Friday, July 3rd, I was released from the hospital and got to go to my new home in Rockport , Texas. So, here I am, a very happy mare with her own stall/paddock (and I still have a fan!), plenty of good food, hay, water, and carrots and cookies. My new mom assures me every day as she cleans my surgical site and puts on my medicine that I will always have a safe haven and I take a deep breath and I believe her."

Floating Teeth

2010-05-15T17:04:00.004-05:00

This is an (extremely cheesy) video about floating your horse's teeth and why we do it. If you can get past the lame music and transitions, it's a good little intro to why and when we float teeth. If you are not a vet or an equine dentistry specialist, do not float your horse's teeth. If you have not been trained properly, you could do extensive damage to your horse's mouth, and thus digestion. Don't try this at home; consult your veterinarian.

The Australian Saddle -- A Nice Hybrid

2010-04-26T12:08:00.017-05:00

About ten years ago, I was working at a camp and the horse I was assigned had an Australian or Aussie saddle that belonged to her. I quickly fell in love with this saddle as it was the most comfortable saddle I had ever ridden in--perfect for the long trail rides we would do day after day. While many of my fellow wranglers were complaining of saddle sores, I was trotting along just fine with no pain.

I like the Aussie saddles because they are a nice hybrid between a Western pleasure saddle and an All-Purpose English saddle. My biggest complaint with Western saddles are that they are too bulky and I can't feel the horses movements as well as I would like... But when you want a comfortable saddle to spend hours in trail riding an English saddle can leave you pretty sore because it doesn't have a lot of cushion. The perfect compromise--the Aussie saddle! With it's high leg rolls ("poleys") and deep seat construction, it's a solid seat that gives you a lot of control. The sides are minimal flaps of leather that don't impede the feel of the horse's side. There are typically a lot of metal "D" hangers on Aussie saddles that allow you to securely tie quite a few saddle bags/water/bug spray etc., with ease, and some even have horns if you are looking to rope.

Aussie saddles (most of them) have a unique system that connects a piece of leather ("overgirth") over the saddle that attaches to the girth underneath the horse. It looks as though the piece of leather over the saddle could be uncomfortable, but this isn't the case. In my opinion, you don't even notice it's there. Here's a little video from the Australian Saddle Co, which explains how to measure yourself for the Aussie saddle. The one below shows you how to measure the horse. (Though I've never seen anyone draw on a horse with chalk before...)

He's got a few good points. You want to make sure the "tree" of your saddle isn't pinching your horses withers. This can be difficult if you are riding many horses with different measurements. I suppose if you had a perfect fitting saddle, you might not require a pad--I often see English riders simply ride with their saddle to a bare horse--but I prefer the extra cushion of a saddle pad for the sake of your horse's back, number one, and, number 2, protecting your saddle from the horse's sweat. An extra fitting tip is to make sure the saddle is level from pommel to cantle (front to back). Often horses with high withers will create a drastic slope, making it much harder on the rider to balance and the back of the horse. Lift the back of the saddle up with foam cut in the shape of a half moon or even a towel folded neatly (no wrinkles) in half will adequately raise the cantle to level.

Aussie saddles are especially nice for beginners who haven't developed their seat yet. The deep seat of the saddle helps the beginner gain confidence, build muscle and find their center of balance. If you haven't tried an Aussie saddle, I highly recommend it for riders of all levels and ages.

Riding Home -- Taking Lessons at My Childhood Barn

2010-04-21T11:20:00.014-05:00

Over the last year, I had been living in the town I grew up in. While thinking about my own instructing approach, I began to recollect my own experiences with the hunter/jumper lessons I took as a child--after all, this was the foundation for all my future equine experiences. There were a few things I was reminded of and some things I had forgotten...

Can you believe that after 15 years, the pony that I had jumped as a child, "Easy," was still there! This little mohawked, muddy brown mare is now blind in one eye, a little gray around the muzzle, but still being used for walking beginners.

It's a really nice facility...wash racks, paved walk ways, indoor and outdoor arena, rolling hills. The barn (s)--there are 3--have changed hands and the new owners have installed a beautiful stone facade at the entrance.

As a child, I was very curious and inquisitive (as an adult I still am) especially about horses. I use to ask question after question to my 20 something instructor. I can imagine it was pretty annoying...I remember she yelled at me once "Stop asking so many questions!" This really resonated with me especially at that age. I didn't understand--"If I don't ask questions, how will I know the answer??" (And this was before Google) As an adult, I have vowed that I would always try to answer my student's questions the best I could and never scold someone for asking too many. Learning about horses and riding is an on-going vocation. I am constantly learning new practices, new training methods and facts about equine science. ...And just when you think you know a lot, then there's some new skill-set that's foreign to you and worth exploration.

I think the main component, in this early education, that really left a void in my equine repertoire--until years later--was the care of the horse. This barn was (is) lesson-centric. Unless you had the money to lease or own your own horse then the care of the school horses wasn't your concern. Having my own horse as a child wasn't an option. We lived in the suburbs, and horses were MY passion, not that of my parents--though they were very supportive of my lessons. Going back, I learned that boarding a horse at this barn is now $750 a month plus farrier and vet bills...Still a bit absorbent in my world. After high school I worked at camps and ranches where this void of horse care was filled in bit by bit. Now, as an instructor I try to balance this education for my students. So much of your horse's performance could be related to their diet or over-all health.

...But I should say that this barn really has spoiled me in terms of stock. During one of my lessons, I was happy to chat with a quick-witted, 17 year old high school student who just returned from Mississippi where she placed 8th in the Grand Prix. She boards 6, imported Dutch bay Warm-bloods...absolutely GORGEOUS horses! She definitely is the envy of not just me, but all the girls at the barn. She's fearlessly jumping courses of 5 foot fences on an international stage...no easy feat. I asked her if she's gotten seriously injured. She said so matter-of-fact, "Yeah, last year I broke both wrists and hurt my back." A boldness that might only exists at age 17. She said her mom could only watch through the eye of her video cam. It is a dangerous sport--there is no doubt--but this could also happen during a gymnastics meet or football game. However, it really drives home the fact that horses and equine sports are dangerous and proper precautions should be taken no matter what level of riding you partake.

Overall though, it was really nice to have an external, knowledgeable view point of my riding--something you tend not to have when you're the instructor. In many respects going back to my childhood barn felt very comfortable, like riding home.

Natural Horsemanship

2010-02-28T21:59:00.005-06:00

Over the years, I have been really interested in natural horsemanship, but have always been working for someone else, and had to conform to someone else's conclusions about bits, shoeing, etc. When you grow up riding a certain way, sometimes it just takes one person to say "Why not do it this way?" for you to reevaluate what you've been taught. Nature--natural selection--is a tremendous force that has created an amazing animal, adapted to weather, stress and weight. For whatever reason, humans sometimes think they do it better, and try to "fix" or even "break" the horse, when they don't need to. Here are a few articles by Dr. Robert Cook, that really get you thinking about equine practices in a new light.

http://www.bitlessbridle.com/cat/Articles.html

A Good Horse is Never a Bad Color :: A Basic Genetics Lesson :: PART 1

2010-01-28T02:21:00.042-06:00

If you're like me, you always sat in the front row in biology class. I love learning how things come to be and why we are the way we are. This has carried over to my love of horses and specifically their genetics. Just like eye color or blood type in humans, horses have recessive and dominant genes that determine their markings, coat color and eye color. Even though you may have no plans to become a professional breeder, there are advantages to understanding simple equine genetics. In the future, you may wish to breed your own horse, or to buy a horse that has specific traits or carries specific genes…or maybe you’ve seen some horse ads that have “alphabet soup” in them and you didn’t understand the lingo.

Genes can either be Dominant or Recessive. Think of it like a deck of cards. The Jack of Clubs and the Jack of Hearts—both cards are almost identical, both could be apart of a full house, a flush…but both have a few things that make them unique to the other—suit and color. If these two Jack cards represent coat color in horses, the black color would always “dominate” the red color.

If a Queen of Clubs (Black) married a Jack of Hearts (Red) they would have what color babies?...most likely black because it’s a dominant “gene” BUT the babies could also be red if the Jack AND Queen carried the recessive gene for red. Make sense? No? Ok let’s start at the beginning by clarifying a few terms:

Dominant Gene – Dominant genes show their effect even if there is only one copy of that gene in the pair, hence it always cancels out the recessive gene. Examples of dominant traits in horses are coats that have a black base (such as Black, Brown, Bay, Dun, Blue Roan or Gray). Dominant traits are often represented with capital letters, such as (Ee or EE)

Recessive Gene -- A type of gene that is not expressed as a trait unless inherited by both parents or a gene that is expressed in the foal when both parents carry the recessive gene, but is masked in the presence of a dominant gene. Recessive coat colors in horses have a red base and include Sorrel, Chestnut, Red Roan, Red Dun, Palomino, and Cremello. Recessive traits are often represented with a lower case letter, such as (ee or Ee)

(By the way, it’s important to note that a gene (genotype) produces a trait (phenotype). A trait is visually recognizable while a gene is not. The terms are not interchangeable. A horse may have the gene for Gray, but may not exhibit it as a trait.)

When you breed horses, it’s not only important to actually see the horse and thus see his coloring….this is a no brainer right?...but you also want to look at its parents or better yet, test the horse to determine if the horse is a “carrier” for a certain gene he may not exhibit on his body. Just like the word implies, a Carrier is a horse (or person for that matter) who carries a gene in their DNA but doesn’t exhibit the trait themselves. A recessive gene in humans is the gene for Cystic Fibrosis or CF. Both parents have to carry the CF gene in order to produce a child with CF.

Breeding isn’t fool proof though. You have a percentage of getting the dominant trait and a percentage of getting the recessive trait in the foal. Here’s a chart that shows you how to weigh your odds. Look at these charts as a pie chart. Each slice is 25% of the total 100%. Capital (G) represents the dominant trait, let’s say Gray, and lower case (r) represents a red base coat or recessive gene. Let’s say a “heterozygous” gray stallion – or one who carries the recessive red coat gene is bred to a “homozygous” Chestnut mare—or a mare who doesn’t carry the dominant gray gene. What are the chances the foal will be gray? Let’s find out. By the way….Did you catch those two terms? The prefix ‘homo’ means same and ‘hetero’ mean different, and zygous means the union of cells as in the word “zygote.” Ok back to our example….

But what if the stallion was homozygous for Gray? What would that look like?

One thing to note about the dominant Gray gene though (which is why it's particularly tricky) is it has the ability to produce foals that don't appear gray at birth, but will "gray out" over time, generally in 5 to 10 years. Homozygous (GG) horses will show more rapid graying and larger distribution of gray than heterozygous (Gr) horses, but both will "gray out"--(r) is the absence of gray--(rr) horses will NOT gray out. So that stallion in example 1 might not have been born gray, but has "grayed out" into adulthood.

Seem simple enough? Well when the traits are all over body colors it can be pretty easy to sketch out a chart and discover your percentage of getting a certain coat. But what if the colors aren’t solid? What if the colors are actually coat patterns, as in Paints? Well, then it can be a little more tricky. As long as you learn what genes are either dominant or recessive, you will be able to determine your chances of a mare “throwing” or giving birth to a particular looking foal.

Registered Paint horses or the often unregistered “Pinto” (a general term for a patterned coat) have three general identifying patterns: Tobiano, Overo, and Tovero. (The next terms are paraphrased from Wikipedia.)

Tobiano: The most common type of pinto pattern. A spotting pattern characterized by rounded markings with white legs and white across the back between the withers and the dock of the tail, usually arranged in a roughly vertical pattern and more white than dark, though the ideal is a 50-50 distribution, with the head usually dark and with markings like that of a normal horse. i.e. star, snip, strip, or blaze. Tobiano is a simple dominant trait caused by a single gene. All tobiano horses have at least one tobiano parent. Tobiano is not associated with any health concerns.

Overo: A collective term used primarily by the American Paint Horse Association (APHA) essentially meaning "Pinto, but not tobiano." These patterns are characterized by irregular markings with a horizontal orientation. The white rarely crosses the back, and the lower legs are normally dark. While most currently-identified overo patterns appear to be dominant traits, overo foals (called "cropouts") are occasionally produced from two apparently solid-colored parents.

Tovero: spotting pattern that is a mix of tobiano and overo coloration, such as blue eyes on a dark head. Horses can carry multiple spotting genes at the same time, producing characteristics of both patterns.

So those are the three main types of Paint or Pinto horses but here are four related terms you might hear as well.

Frame or Frame Overo: A popular and easily recognized type of non-tobiano pinto. This spotting pattern, in the absence of genes for other patterns, is characterized by horizontally-oriented white patches with jagged, crisp edges. White patches typically include the head, face and lateral aspects of the neck and body, and the eyes are often blue. Frame overos may have very modest markings that are not obviously "pinto." Frame is an incomplete dominant trait: those without any copies of the "frame gene" (N/N) will not possess this pattern, those with a single copy (N/O) usually exhibit frame patterning (though sometimes in a very minimal form).

Splashed White: An uncommon type of non-tobiano pinto pattern in which horizontally-oriented white markings have crisp, smooth edges and make the horse appear to have been dipped, head lowered, into white paint. The face has significant white markings and the eyes are usually blue. Most splashed white pintos have normal hearing, but the trait is linked to congenital deafness.

Sabino: Sometimes confused with roan or rabicano, a slight spotting pattern characterized by high white on legs, belly spots, white markings on the face extending past the eyes and/or patches of roaning patterns standing alone or on the edges of white markings. However, one form, produced by the Sabino-1 (SB1) gene, is a dominant. Horses homozygous for SB-1 are often completely white, but Sabino-1 and other sabino patterns are not associated with any health defects. Though genetically unrelated to frame or splash, sabino is classified with the "overo" family of patterns by the APHA. Sabino is not necessarily classified as an overo pattern by other breed registries, particularly those whose horses do not carry the genes for the other two overo patterns.

Dominant White: A family of sabino-like white spotting patterns all dominantly inherited. While some forms are associated with pure white coats and are considered "True White," not pinto, most actually show great variance in the amount of white. The 11 known forms of dominant white have all occurred spontaneously in the past century from non-white parents. Many forms of white spotting that were called "sabino" by their owners and fanciers are now classified as dominant white. The distinction between sabino and dominant white is unclear, as they are visually similar and involve closely related genes.

Ok, but Dominant White coats or Cremello coats are not to be confused with “Lethal Whites.” Lethal White Syndrome is linked to Frame Overo gene and can occur when both parents carry the gene. Affected foals are carried to term and at birth appear normal, though they have pink-skinned all-white or nearly-white coats and blue eyes. However, the colon of these foals cannot function due to the absence of nerve cells, and the condition cannot be treated. Foals with Lethal White Syndrome invariably die of colic within 72 hours, and are usually humanely euthanized.

...I know! Can you believe it?! But Lethal Whites can be avoided with proper DNA testing prior to breeding….which is why testing is so important!

Remember these are just the basics. There are still many other genes that effect color patterns including Dilution Genes (including Champagne, Amber, Cream and Dun) that lighten the main base colors in a variety of ways. Still confused about all these terms? Check out my friend Sarah’s website for a second explanation.

Equine Coats and Markings :: Learning the Lingo

2010-01-18T00:00:00.043-06:00

Remember this brightly colored equine from the Wizard of Oz? Of course horses don't come in quite this hue, but do come in a plethora of multi-colored coats and markings in real life. It's important to learn the proper terms for these coats and marking so that you'll be familiar with the lingo when you are buying, selling or showing your horse. The below are very general horse colors. Some breeds, like Paints, Appaloosas and Arabians have even more specific terms to describe coats and patterns. Click here to see the APHA's color guide. Here's a page which shows the various coats of the Appaloosa breed.

Click the images below to enlarge your view.

Horses typically have brown eyes. Some, however, will have one or two blue eyes, also known as "glass eyes."

The "Flea-bitten" Gray (from wikipedia) -- (most common in Arabian horses) A horse that has completely changed its base coat will either be pure white or "flea-bitten" gray. Flea-bitten gray is a color consisting of a white hair coat with small speckles or "freckles" of red-colored hair throughout. Most horses who become flea-bitten grays still go through a brief period when they are pure white.

The flea-bitten pattern, like freckles on a human, can also vary: Some horses may appear almost pure white, with only a few speckles observed on close examination. Others may have so many speckles that they are occasionally mistaken for a roan or even a type of sabino. The genetic process that causes the flea-bitten color pattern is not well-understood at present.
------------------------

One misconception is that white horses are ALBINOS. Horses that have white hair are not referred to as white, they are referred to as gray because they have black skin. If their hair was white, and their skin was pink (and had pink eyes) they would be an albino, but no albinos have been reported in horses....however, other species have had rare albino mutations encountered including deer, alligators and snakes.

Albinism (from wikipedia) -- There is no reported case of an "albino" horse, despite references to so-called "albino" horses. There are also references in literature calling white horses "albino." All so-called "albino" horses have pigmented eyes, usually brown or blue, and thus are not true albinos. Albino mammals typically have a white hair coat, unpigmented skin and reddish eyes

Despite this, some registries still refer to "albino" horses. For example, the Paso Fino Horse Association registers cremellos and other cream colors as "albino." Until 1999, the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) described cremellos as "albino" in rule 227. The AQHA later replaced the word "albino" with "cremello or perlino," and in 2002 the rule was removed entirely. Among Connemara pony breeders, homozygous creams are called "blue-eyed creams" or sometimes "pseudo-albino" and remain barred from the stud book.

Other Markings

Dorsal Stripe -- Also called an eel stripe, spinal stripe, or list, a dark, bold dorsal stripe running down the spine from ears to tail is the primary primitive marking. Dun horses always possess a dorsal stripe. Even in the cases of non-duns with dorsal stripes, no other primitive markings exist without the presence of the dorsal stripe.

Leg bars -- Also called zebra bars, tiger stripes, or garters, leg bars are the most common accessory to the dorsal stripe. Leg bars are most commonly seen on or above the knees and hocks and reflect the underlying coat color. Leg bars on bay duns are black within the points, and reddish above them.

Leg bars are prominent on Grevy's Zebras and Mountain Zebras, and African Wild Asses also have well-defined black leg bars below the forearm and gaskin on a white or pale background. However, as in horses, expression of leg bars seems to vary widely among Donkeys, Plains Zebras and Przewalski's Horses, while they appear very seldom or not at all in Onagers, and Kiangs.

Leg markings may also take the form of blotches, patches, marbling, mottling, or spotting

(Actually) Selling Your Horse :: On-Site Visit :: Part 2

2010-01-12T18:47:00.024-06:00

Congratulations! You've nabbed yourself some potential buyers from your online ad. The next step is to have people come out to your farm to "test-ride" your horse. There are several steps you'll want to take care of before, during and after your appointment.

Have a Vet Perform a Check Up. Before you begin to have potential buyers out to your farm for a "test-ride" have a vet do an exam on your horse, and get the results of this vet check in writing. You will be able to show these documents to the potential buyers and avoid the hassle of having multiple buyers send their own vet out to your farm.

Spread Out Your Appointments. Try not to have any appointments overlap. I would not recommend having more than 2 appointments a day...so you don't overwork your horse...or you! If your horse begins to get fussy or tired, buyers won't find your horse as appealing.

Get Your Horse Ready for His Close-up. Make sure your horse is thoroughly cleaned and groomed, as well as his tack. It's always a good idea to tidy up your yard and barn, as well as yourself. Wear presentable clothing....you don't have to be in full show attire, but your clothes, tack and barn are a reflection of your care for your horse. The better your property looks, the better your horse and his care will appear.

Make an Appointment About 1-2 Hours After Feeding Time. This will allow your horse's feed to properly digest. His stomach won't be growling and good meal 1-2 hours prior will allow him to focus on your commands.

Arrive Early. Go out to your barn early (1/2-1 hr) and set up. Have everything ready before your buyers come....saddle, bridle, halter, release form, etc. If you don't ride or handle your horse very often, use the week prior to get your horse use to visitors and handlers again.

Have Your Buyers Sign a Release Form. If the potential buyers are going to be around your horse and ride him, they need to sign a basic release form. The release form should (surprise!) release you from any liability from possible injury or property damage. I like to have a line that protects your potential buyer as well, stating they aren't responsible for property damage or injury to the horse...so the form is balanced and reassures your guests.

Allow The Buyers to Watch You Tack Up. Introduce your horse..."This is Snowball.....She's a 12 year old registered Paint..." This is also a great time to chat with your buyers and show off your horse's ground manners (Hopefully he has some!). Reiterate a few points from your ad, focusing on your horses good points. "Snowball was the 2002 National Saddle Seat Champion and now is a wonderful trail horse." etc.

Ride Your Horse For Your Guests. Take your guests out to the arena or pasture and warm up your horse in front of your buyers. This allows your buyers the chance to see your horse move in person as well as see how your horse is use to being approached, warmed up, and ridden. Don't rush...warm your horse up for at least 10-15 minutes. If your horse isn't broke for riding, show the buyer what your horse does know like like halter handling and or lounging. Don't show off....if you want to show that your horse can jump, for instance, don't over do it by jumping difficult jumps you rarely attempt. This could be dangerous and unnecessary.

Allow Your Guests to Ride Your Horse. Hopefully your guests have brought the person who is going to be the horse's primary handler. Help your guest mount and adjust their irons/stirrups. If you feel better doing so, offer some riding suggestions on how to control your horse....and explain it's for safety reasons....so you don't offend the buyer.

Ask Your Buyer(s) If They Have Any Questions. After the rider gets off your horse, ask them if they would like to see any of the horse's papers--registration papers, vet check results, etc. Ask them if they have any questions. Reiterate the asking price of the horse so that information is very clear.

Follow Up. If you don't hear anything in the next 2-3 days, call your buyers to follow up. Ask if they have any additional questions. Offer them the opportunity to come back for a second ride. Be honest about the interest of others....but don't be pushy. If you have another buyer interested in your horse, you can share that information with the other potential buyer but don't use phrases like "Better hurry or ____ will be gone!" Pushy phrases will just come off as annoying and will most likely push buyers away.

Tips for (Actually) Selling Your Horse ONLINE :: PART 1

2010-01-11T17:55:00.047-06:00

Posting ads online has taken over as the norm when it comes to selling horses. It allows the prospective buyer to scan a plethora of animals, and narrow down the ones suitable for an on-site visit. It can be a sad day when you have to part ways with your horse. Your chances of finding him a good home will be better with a strongly composed ad.

With a background in marketing and photography, I have noticed several mistakes people make in their online ads. Are you posting your ad over and over again without any nibbles? Here are a few tips for (actually) selling your horse online.
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Always be honest. If you do attract a buyer, and they catch you in a fib, no matter how minor, it will cause you to use your credibility. Include keywords like "bombproof" or "flashy" in your ad ONLY if they truly pertain to your horse. Don't just use words you think buyers are looking for if it's not an honest description of your horse.

What Should I Include? Always have a positive bent in your tone. Instead of saying "Beauty is sometimes a spooky horse." say: "Beauty is a very alert and responsive horse." Rather than saying: "Buddy can't jump very high." say: "Buddy is a solid 2 ft. jumper."

Here's a check list of what to include in your ad:

Basic Information:

Breed(s)--(Specify registration: For example: AQHA or APHA)
Sex--(Mare, Gelding, Stallion--If it's a mare, include broodmare history if applicable.)
Hands--(Don't guess. Go out and measure your horse so that you can be very specific.)
Age--(Include "DOB" or Date of Birth if known.)
Color / Markings--(For example: Dapple Grey with charcoal mane and tail.)
Temperament--(For example: Loves human attention, high spirit level, extrovert.)

More Specific:

Trained Discipline(s)--(For example: well-trained hunter/jumper, experienced cutting horse, calm, dependable trail horse)
Ground Manners--(For example: bathes, clips and loads well)
Awards / Titles / Accomplishments--(For example: 2002 National Saddle Seat Champion, 4-H Versatility Champion)
Dam & Sire--(If they are notable in your region or area.)
Current Handler & Riding Schedule--("_____ has been ridden consistently for 3 years by my 12 year old daughter." or "_____ has excellent muscle tone when in shape, but has been a pasture buddy for the last 2 years.")

Medical History:

Last Coggins Test Results & Dates
Any Past or Present Injuries

Bullet Point Your Ad. If your ad is on Craigslist or somewhere that gives you an open paragraph to write about your horse, use bullet points rather than write in one, dense paragraph. This organizes your ad and allows buyers the opportunity to do an initial scan of your information. Consider learning and using basic HTML. Many sites will allow basic HTML in their ads...for example << bee >> National Saddle Seat Champion < / bee > (without the spaces and bee is b) will look bold in your ad: National Saddle Seat Champion and thus grab readers' attention.

Leave Out Your Long, Sob Story. "My daughter loved this horse, but she had to go off to boarding school and now the horse is...." The buyer might need to hear this story if it's applicable to the horse's behavior or condition but otherwise it's just TMI ("too much information"). Be short, concise, and honest.

IMAGES

Quality, clear pictures are sooooo important! If you have to hire your neighbor (who has a good digital camera) to take a few shots of your horse, do it! You should have at least 2 images of your horse in your ad. Never ever post an ad without pictures...you will be wasting your time. People want to see before they buy. Have at least 1 picture of your horse in profile so that buyers can see your horse's conformation. The other image should be of the horse's head. If you can attach an attractive personality to your horse in a head shot, that will be more appealing to buyers.....Oh, and ONLY include current images. Do not include images of your horse competing 5 years ago...even though you may think they look impressive--five years later--they aren't an accurate depiction of your horse now.

Consider the Background and Lighting--The background should be simple as not to detract from your horse. Try to find an appealing backdrop for your images, such as a green pasture. Make sure you have plenty of light. Try to use natural light whenever possible as opposed to flash. Overcast days are some of the best days to photograph your horse, because there won't be harsh shadows, but rather even, diffused lighting.

Make Sure Your Horse is at His Best--Take the time to groom your horse and clean his tack, so that he is ready for his closeup!

Highlight Your Horse, Not the Rider or Handler--Avoid posting images with you and your horse. Images of you riding or posing with your horse can be distracting to buyers, and if they don't react positively to your riding style, for instance, that could detract from the ad. Whenever possible, showcase your horse in his natural state.

Show Your Horse in Motion--If you are able to post an image of your horse cantering or trotting, do so. This will show the buyer what type of gait your horse has. Some sites allow videos to be posted for this very reason--so the buyer can get a "feel" for how the horse moves his body. If you create a video of your horse, restrain from creating a music video style movie....for the same reason listed above. Music and fast shifting camera angles will distract from your ad and your horse. Don't let the video be more about your musical tastes than your horse. I recommend videos be under 3 minutes long. Consider streaming your video through YouTube.com and embedding the video into your ad (some websites allow this and some don't). (Embedding your video is simple....YouTube.com creates the code for you to pop in to your ad.)
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Include Logistical Information--How do you expect the person to pick up your horse? Will you transport the animal to its new owner? Will this be an extra fee? This information should all be laid on the table prior to a "meet n greet" appointment. Also, include what type of payment you will accept?....cash, money order, personal check, PayPal....? Also, explain your position on returns...are you allowing a grace period? Are all sales final?

Put a Set Price on Your Horse--Put a specific price on your horse. Do not include the words OBO (Or Best Offer). You want to attract people who are actually prepared to pay in the range you desire. Negotiation is an assumed part of the buying process. You should list the horse for a slightly higher price than you are willing to let the horse go. This will give you some flexibility when it comes to negotiating with the prospective buyer.

Ice the Cake--Are you willing to transport the horse from your farm to theirs? Are you willing to part with your horse's tack? Are you willing to throw in anything to "sweeten the deal?" Sometimes I like to hold off on offering such "sweeteners" until I have a nibble....It might be just enough to push the scales in your favor.

Buying a horse? Check out my tips for buying a horse in the tips section.

Fighting the Winter Freeze: Tips for Keeping Your Horse Healthy in the Winter Months

2010-01-06T22:59:00.037-06:00

In generally, horses are able to adapt to the winter weather. Depending on your climate the winter cold might not be as cold as some areas of the world, but no matter your region there will be changes you should be aware of and accommodate for during the winter months.

As the quality of your pasture's grass diminishes, you should take a closer look at your horse's diet. Horses produce body heat during digestion (heat is a bi-product of the fermentation process that happens in the horse's body during digestion), so it's better to increase the amount of hay during the winter. Increase the amount, but spread out the horses rations throughout the day, if possible. A winter pasture won't have as many minerals and vitamins as a summer pasture, so have your vet suggest a good multi-vitamin supplement for your horse during the winter months.

To Blanket or Not To Blanket? The answer to this question depends on your climate and your horse's coat. If you begin to blanket your horse in the Fall, then the horse's body doesn't know to compensate new hair growth when the temperature drops. If it's late Fall and your horse's coat doesn't seem to have come in thick enough to keep him warm, you should blanket him. If your horse is older or clipped, you should blanket him. As horses get older they often don't grow as thick of a winter coat as they might have when they were younger. Furthermore, some breeds will not be able to grow a coat comparable to an Icelandic pony. If you live in an extremely cold climate consider blanketing when winter winds and temperatures hit their lowest. This way, your horse's body will produce a thicker winter coat, but during peak winter weeks, a blanket will add not only warmth but wind resistance....which we all know can make 32 degrees feel like -5! Use common sense, if your horse is shivering, he is cold and needs a blanket!

Do Blanket Checks Regularly. If you do choose or need to blanket your horse, don't throw a blanket on your horse and leave it on him all winter! Regularly check for irritation, chaffing and/or wetness. I like to have two coats for my horse so I can switch them back and forth from the washing machine to his back. It's important to keep winter blankets clean (but dry). Make sure you are taking off blankets and grooming your horse frequently--at LEAST 2 times a week. Keep your horse warm during grooming sessions with fleece coolers. I know people who use heaters in their barns, but unless you have a large concrete area away from hay and other flammables, I would not recommend using a heater (kerosene or space) in your barn....it's just too easy to forget to turn it off. If you insist on using one, keep it on a concrete or brick surface and buy one that turns off automatically.

Don't Neglect Regular Horse Care in the Winter. Make sure your horse's teeth have been floated so that they can chew all the extra hay you are giving him without irritation or sensitivity. Make sure your ferrier comes out to pay your horse's hooves a visit....even if you aren't riding your horse as often or at all. Winter months can mean extreme bouts of wetness and dryness, which dry out hooves and may cause cracking and chipping. One way to prevent snow from packing into the horse's frog is to smear a layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to protect the frog from the snow. Also keep up on your de-worming schedule. Plan to de-worm after the first heavy frost. Use a wormer that includes medication to kill bot larvae--who lay their eggs in late summer to early Fall. Bots can be controlled with several types of de-wormers, including dichlorvos, ivermectin and trichlorfon.

Never Put Your Horse Away Wet. If you are riding your horse throughout the winter, to the point that he is sweating, even a little, always make sure he is completely dry before putting him out or back in his stall. Wet means cold, and that can cause your horse to catch a chill and thus get sick. Get your horse use to the sound of a hair dryer....a handy tool in the winter months!

Make Sure Your Horse Has Plenty of Clean Drinking Water. It can be tricky to keep water from freezing in the winter months. A horse will not be able to drink ice, duh, and may not even drink water with any ice chunks in it. You don't want the water too hot or too cold--also tricky. Get a bucket water heater made especially for livestock. Chick here to see what I mean. Or even better a bucket that has a built in heater. Like this one. NEVER PUT SALT IN YOUR HORSE'S WATER to prevent it from freezing. I have seen this on several websites as a suggestion....bad...bad...If there is salt in your horse's water they can't naturally regulate the amount of salt they are ingesting without the possibility of dehydration. It is true that your horse needs salt in the winter, just like it needs salt in the summer. (The chemical formula for table salt is NaCl aka sodium chloride--two minerals that keep a healthy horse. NaCl molecule shown right.) It is far better to keep a salt lick available to the horse in his stall and in the pasture. Also, some feed has salt as an ingredient....check your feed's label....your horse might be getting more salt than you thought. The National Research Council suggests that horses at rest need only 25 grams of sodium chloride per day. And always, wash your water buckets with soap regularly to prevent mold from growing. (I like using dish soap like Dawn because it rinses out faster and more thoroughly than other soaps.)

Even if You Stable Your Horses at Night Make Sure You Provide Shelter from Wind and Snow During the Day. Just like you should provide shelter from the hot summer sun, do the same for your horses in the winter. Though unlike summer shelter over head, your horses will need a barrier between them and the winter wind. Remember the wind doesn't just blow in one direction. Create accessible shelter that provides a wind barrier on all four sides.
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It's easy to overlook your horse's needs in the winter because many of us aren't riding as often. But if anything, your horse needs even more of your attention in the winter to stay safe, healthy and ready to go, go, go come Spring!

Tips for Buying the Right Horse

2010-01-06T00:15:00.024-06:00

A new year, a new horse? Here are some tips so that the new year means a new,
fantastic relationship with a new horse!

Horses are a huge responsibility. Before you buy a horse consider the financial investment. Are you financially able to not only feed your horse, but to vaccinate your horse, buy blankets, tack, pay for vet bills, ferrier visits, trainer visits...and God forbid, what if your horse has to have emergency surgery? Are you prepared and able to fit the bill? Though it varies from region to region, on average 1 horse costs approximately 1400-2000 dollars a year to keep--and that is a HEALTHY, BAREFOOT horse on your own property. Also, who will take care of your horse when you are out of town? Do you have someone you can ask who is somewhat knowledgeable about horses? If you are boarding this horse then this might not be an issue. Do you have the land to keep the horse? Do you have a companion for your horse?...Lots to think about!

Expand Your Search! Buying a horse is a big investment. If you are willing to spend the money on the horse, then spend a little more money on picking up the right horse from a neighboring city. Look online at sites like www.dreamhorse.com, www.bigeq.com, www.equine.com...and of course Craigslist.com (generally in the farm and gardening section).

Don't be Persuaded by the Color or Beauty of the Horse. As much as you like the idea of riding a 19H dapple gray Percheron, you might not be financially prepared for the amount of feed a Percheron eats. I find Arabians are often a good example of this tip. Arabians are some of the most beautiful horses in the world...they prance, have flowing manes, are great for endurance riding...but they can be skittish and hot tempered--not ideal for someone who just wants an even tempered trail horse. Buy a horse that matches your skill level at the time of purchase, not where you would like to be in 5 years.

Don't Put Too Much Emphasis on Papers. While specific breeds might be better suited for certain disciplines...don't discredit horses who might not have papers....especially if you are just looking for a good general riding horse. It is true however, that a horse with papers might be easier to resell, because some people find them desirable....but papers don't affect a horse's overall performance!

Always Take the Horse for a Test-Ride. Buying a horse is much like buying a car. You would never buy a car on-site without driving it, and you shouldn't buy a horse without riding it either. I see people skip this step when they want the horse or pony to be a surprise. Not always a good idea. Take the rider who will be riding the horse to test-ride the horse. Seems like common sense, but you'd be surprised how often this doesn't happen (And don't forget your helmet!) Horses and people have personalities, and a rider will generally know if that horse is a compliment to their own personality or if the two clash. Don't be afraid to interact with the horse....pet him....waves your arms....does he have good reaction times? Pay close attention to the horses legs and hooves....Do they look well taken care of? Are they severely cracked? Heard the phrase "No hoof, no horse." Very true!

Always Take Your Trainer with You on Your Test-Ride. Your trainer knows your riding the very best and might be able to spot problems you can't detect while riding. It's always good to have a knowledgeable horse-person there to serve as an objective party as well as an extra pair of eyes and ears. Let your trainer ride the horse too, this will allow your trainer to give you the best, well-rounded advice possible. Sometimes trainers charge a commission fee if they have tracked down this particular horse for you. Generally, commission fees run 10-20% of the horses sale price.

Always Do a Vet Check with a Vet YOU Choose. I always recommend this, especially for first-time horse owners. I, personally, would never buy a horse without a vet check. Vet's are use to doing these checks on buying prospects...and they can detect hundreds of ailments that your eye might not be able to. It might be an added expense, but think about the thousands of dollars you could be saving if the horse had a respiratory ailment you didn't know about!...maybe the seller didn't even know the horse was sick! If the seller won't let you do a vet check....run for the hills!...what are they hiding?? And always ask what injury or sicknesses the horse may have had in the past....could these be chronic ailments or just passing viruses?

Don't Believe the Owner When They Say He is 4. I have seen this happen time and time again: a seller tells the buyer the horse is 4, and then getting him home, the vet comes out (because they didn't do an initial vet check!) and says "This horse isn't 4. He's more like 10!" The seller might not be lying....they might have only had the horse a year, and truly believe he is 4. Look at his teeth! As horses age, their front teeth protrude outwards. If the horse is a young horse his front teeth to his gums will be very straight. Reading a horse's age from his teeth can be difficult for newbies and not always accurate, but looking and being knowledgeable will definitely give you an approximation of the horse's age. How old is this horse in the picture? I would say he's relatively young horse, maybe 5-7.

Look at A Lot of Horses Before Narrowing Down Your Options. You might fall in love with the first horse you look at and think he is perfect for you, but until you look at multiple horses you won't have anything to compare him to so you can't be sure.

Have a Rough Idea of What You Are Looking For. Better to search with a flexible game-plan in mind. For example: Athletic build suitable for jumping, between 12-14H, middle aged, high-spirit level, and your price range. Don't turn away older horses....Older horses can be perfect 1st time horse for a variety of owners, from children to adults.....from trail horses to 4-H projects.

Don't be Afraid to Haggle. Negotiating can be a touch sticky. Most sellers, in my experience, are prepared to negotiate. Ask if they are willing to throw in tack, blankets, etc., which might make the deal a tad sweeter for you--not to mention make the transition a bit smoother (pun intended!) for the horse psychologically. If they are selling the horse, sometimes they will have no need for the tack they have and might be willing to include it in the transaction. Also, when negotiating, don't be afraid to walk away. If you seem desperate the seller won't have any incentive to lower the price. Finally, don't be bullied into buying a horse with phrases like "He's sure to go soon!" or "I don't know if he'll be here tomorrow...better buy him now!" ...If you rush into a purchase you might be stuck with a horse that's not right for you. Just tune out those phrases!

Always Inquire Why the Seller is Selling. Did this horse recently have an injury? Is the horse "too much horse" for their young children? Don't they have time for the horse anymore and it's been years since the horse has been ridden? All of these questions will give you insight into the type of horse you are really getting. Also ask if the horse can be bathed, clipped and loaded easily....very important attributes.

Don't be Fooled By the Word "PROSPECT." Many horses are labeled a "great prospect." For example: show jumping prospect, reining prospect, etc. Remember this is 1 opinion of the seller who wants to sell his horse to you. Just because a horse is a good prospect for something, doesn't mean it will be or that it has had any training in this particular discipline. Just like a child could be a "vocal prodigy prospect" because his mother was an opera singer, but that doesn't mean the child likes to sing or that he's ever sang before....or that he's not actually tone-deaf!! Same goes for horses.

Look for Signs of Drugging. I know some of you are like "WHAT...DRUGGING?!" but yes, sadly, people will give their horses tranquilizers before a potential buyer comes over to test-ride the horse. Look for signs of extreme sleepiness and fatigue: droopy eyelids, distant stare, abnormal drooling...these might be hard to detect because this will be a horse you are unfamiliar with. If you suspect the horse seems strange to you, use your gut feeling. Say to the seller, "You know I really would like my father (mother, sister, etc.) to see this horse, but he's a very busy man. Do you mind if we stop by tomorrow between 1 and 4?" Get there at 12:45 and ask to watch the horse in the paddock. Does it seem like the same horse as before? I know this advice seems a little extreme, but I was just privy to a woman buying what she thought was a lazy, gentle giant, and when she got him home he was a terror. We suspect drugging. Sellers may also give the horse uppers to make it seem more spirited than it is, but it doesn't seem as common, in my opinion, as downers....but do keep an eye out for horses that seem like your spouse after 10 cups if coffee! Unless the horse is at risk of seriously injuring himself in transit or unless advised by a vet IT IS NEVER OK TO DRUG A HORSE.

ALWAYS INSIST ON A GRACE PERIOD--AND GET IT IN WRITING! A 1-2 week grace period is standard in the world of horse buying. Like I said, buying a horse can be a tremendous investment. You don't want to buy a horse you think is high spirited, and get it home to find it won't lope no matter what you try. Often sellers on Craigslist won't allow a grace period. I see this often, but I would insist...and if they don't want to allow it, look elsewhere.

Consider Rescuing a Horse! Sometimes rescue animals make the best pets because they can become ultra loyal when given the love and care they deserve, and have been previously deprived of. Be weary though, rescue horses can be skittish and spooky...and some might not be a good match for a child or a less experienced horse person. They can also have severe health issues that can cost you thousands of dollars....and you might not be prepared for that financial commitment. But sadly, there are thousands of people out there that mistreat their horses and have abandoned them or they are seized by authorities. These horses need good homes...and your barn might be just the place!

Good Luck!

Keep Your Horse Safe: Identifying Poisonous Plants

2010-01-04T01:17:00.022-06:00

As I make the transition from Ohio to Texas, I began to think about the landscape and how much of the plant life is unfamiliar to me...at this point. Growing up, I admired how my mother could recall hundreds of plant names and bird species off the top of her head...whether in our backyard or out on the trail. Her teachings coupled with a sixth grade "Ohio Tree Project" gave me a pretty extensive knowledge of Ohio foliage (No joke!)...but I began to think 'Maybe I should research regional poisonous plants a little more thoroughly.' I came across this EXCELLENT resource off of the ASPCA's website that not only illustrates plants poisonous to dogs, cats AND horses, but it also has the symptoms to look out for. Check it out and bookmark it for handy reference! If you ever suspect an animal you care for may have symptoms of poisoning, for heaven's sake, don't wait to see if they get better, call your vet immediately!

ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: Toxic and Non-Toxic Plants

Here are a few I found surprising:

Black Walnut
Buckeye (The State Tree of Ohio!)
Daffodil
Garlic
English Ivy
Mayapple (Very common wild flower in Ohio)
Tomato Plant

Tips for Controling Your Horse Allergies

2010-01-03T12:33:00.047-06:00

One thing people are surprised to learn about me is that I'm allergic to horses. I actually have all sorts of (rather severe) allergies from grass, hay, dogs, and cats to dust, mites and molds. From a young age I didn't want my allergies to get in the way of me spending time with horses. I loved them too much to give them up. We had a neighbor friend who was a veterinarian, who was allergic to animals (Can you believe that?!) and he would get shots every week to control his symptoms...this served as great inspiration for me, even though I don't think this doctor ever knew it. :)

While having a conversation with someone recently, they mentioned to me that their niece loved coming out to her farm but was unable to partake in horse-related activities because of her allergies....even though she loved horses! This made me sad, because I know from personal experience how frustrating and isolating that can be. I shared with this woman what I do to control my allergies and I later heard that they worked well enough for this young girl to be able to partake in horsey activities during her last visit!

Understandably everyone's allergies are different. Some people just get a runny nose and itchy eyes....while others get full blown asthma attacks plus all the typical symptoms. Last year I had my allergies checked, and on a scale from 1-4 my doctor said I was a 5! (oi!) My symptoms include hives on my forearms and hands, itchy, swollen eyes, runny nose, exhaustion, and trouble breathing. As a kid I never had problems breathing but have since developed this symptom as an adult.

One nice thing about horse allergies in comparison to dog or cat allergies, let's say, is that horses live outside (well away from your living quarters at least) and as long as you take some precautions to avoid taking their dust and hair in the house with you, you can control your allergies more so than animals that live with you.
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1. Whenever possible wear gloves when working with horses or working in the barn, whether they be leather riding gloves, work gloves or rubber gloves. Always wash your hands before putting on your gloves, so the inside of your gloves stay clean. (Dish washing gloves work well for bathing your horse or even grooming because they are typically longer then latex or rubber gloves.) Think you look like a dork?...If you want to continue working with horses you may have to do a few things that look a little strange to others. Don't worry, you and your barn friends will soon not even think of it as strange.

2. Avoid touching your face. This took me years to really master because you get busy and forget, but after a few episodes of your eyes swelling shut you will probably remember. :)

3. If your allergies are severe--to horses or to dust/hay, etc--wear a disposable face mask to groom your horse and/or to muck your stalls. Also, groom your horse and clean your barn as often as possible to reduce the collection of dirt and dust.

4. Vacuum your horse rather than brush. This might sound strange to some...and I know some of you are like "My horse won't let me do that!," but working up to the sound of the vacuum....vacuuming the barn let's say and then working up to touching your horse with the hose, as well as conditioning your horse with a positive reinforcement (pets or treats) incorporated with the sound of the vacuum, will allow your horse to see the vacuum as a good thing--much like you do with clippers. Be careful though, don't use a shop vac that has tons of suction, which could be painful. Use a vacuum made specifically for horses. Click here to see a few models.

5. Whenever possible wear long sleeves to reduce your horse/skin contact. This is a hard one to do in the summer, for sure.

6. Wash your hands and forearms as often as possible. Keep liquid soap in a pump-able container near a clean sink. I do not recommend using bar soap as it may house allergens. Also keep a clean towel--or a few towels--near the sink and wash it/them often. (Don't use paper towels they create too much waste. Come on, allergies don't mean you can't stay environmentally conscious! ;)

7. Take a non-drowsy antihistamine prior to working with horses. I have used the gamut of allergy medicines....from Benedryl and Singular to Zyrtec and Claratin. Zyrtec didn't do anything for me, and Singular gave me crazy dreams...and Benedryl made me so tired I couldn't function! I have had the best luck with Claratin and Claratin-D (D stands for decongestant). Claratin has to build up in your system to become the most effective so I take 1 everyday and take 2 on the days I will be working with horses. (Taking two in 24 hours isn't generally recommended, but my doctor told me this was safe for me to do.)

8. Ask your doctor if your could benefit from an inhaler. When I am having trouble breathing, I use an Albuterol inhaler, which is a generic for Salbutamol. Read about this drug. I also have found this handy when I am at people's houses who have animals and I have to be there for several hours.

9. When coming in from the barn, take off as many layers as you can and take off the rest in your laundry room, if possible. Wash your clothes, especially your jeans and shirt as soon as possible.

10. Store your riding clothes and equipment away from your living space, like a basement, laundry room, garage or of course a tack room.

11. Clip your horse in the summer. Why not in the winter you ask?...because the horse regulates his temperature through his coat and grows more hair to keep warm in the winter. Even if you blanket your horse in the winter, I do not recommend clipping your horse throughout the winter. However, in the summer months a good, full body clip can help to keep your horse cool and discourage overheating in the hot summer sun. Clipping of course reduces the amount of your horse's hair that can cause allergic reactions....however, this will not eliminate your reactions because it does not reduce dander--another cause for allergy attacks. Always use clippers especially intended for horses. (*Dander is material shed from the body of various animals, similar to dandruff or pet pollen. It may contain scales of dried skin and hair, or feathers. It is a frequent cause of allergies in humans.)
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Finally, allergies can be a very serious medical condition. They are not fake or something to brush aside. If you know someone who suffers from allergies do not discredit or downplay their symptoms or discomfort. Allergic reactions can feel as though you have the worst cold of your life, can mimic flu-like symptoms, can make breathing painful and they can make you so exhausted you can't think straight. And sadly, people who don't suffer from allergies often have a hard time understanding how serious and frustrating they can be.

Hopefully some of my suggestions will help you or someone you know keep horses in their life and yours!

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(By the way, horses can have allergies too....more on that soon!)

*Always consult a physician before trying or using any medications. I am not a physician. These are simply suggestions and are not to be taken as medical advice.

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Glossary

2010-01-02T00:00:00.011-06:00

-A-
Above the bit
When a horse raises his mouth above the rider's hands to avoid the pressure of the bit.
Abscess
An infection in the sensitive hoof tissue that can cause lameness
Action
The way a horse moves at various gaits.
Aged
Refers to an older horse, over 15 years old.
Aging
Determining a horse's age, usually by looking at their teeth -- As horses age their teeth protrude outward. Depending on the angle of the horse's teeth the horse's age can be estimated.
Aids
What you use to help communicate with a horse. They can be natural (like hands, legs, and voice) or artificial (like crops, spurs and reins).
Alfalfa
A type of hay often fed to horses and other livestock.
Anvil
A farrier's tool used for shaping horseshoes.
Apple Butt
Used to describe a horse whose rear end, when viewed from the back is rounded with a low spot in the middle. Their buttocks are higher than their backs and seen in draft breeds.
Appaloosa
A light horse color-breed that was bred by Indians near the Palouse Valley. They have spotted coats, usually across the top of their rumps. Referred to as "Appys."
Arabian
The "father" of all light horse breeds. They developed in the deserts of Arabia. Arabian's are distinguishable by their often delicate features and unmistakable "dished" face.

-B-

Back Cinch (or Bucking Strap)
A girth located behind the normal girth, used on a western saddle to keep it from tipping up when a horse stops or turn quickly.
Backyard horse
A horse that is usually not shown, but enjoyed by his owners as a pet.
Bagging Up
When a mare begins to fill with milk for her newborn foal.
Bald Face
When a horse has a large white blaze on his face that extends over the eyes and muzzle.
Bale
A measurement of hay, equal to 10 "flakes", tied together with strings called baling twine.
Balk
When a horse disobeys the rider's signals to move and instead stops or refuses to move.
Bareback
Riding a horse without a saddle or other tack on his back.
Barefoot
A horse without shoes. More properly called "unshod".
Barn sour
A horse that doesn't like to leave the barn or stable and balks or otherwise disobeys (rearing) or runs back to the barn. It is learned behavior that can be corrected.
Barrel
A horse's midsection between the girth and flank
Bars
The toothless area in a horse's mouth where the bit sits.
Bay
A color of a horse who has dark brown body hair and a black mane and tail. Often a bay horse has black hair on his lower legs.
Bedding
The material used on the floor of a horse's stall to soak up urine and make the stall softer to lay down on. Either straw and shavings are most commonly used.
Behind the bit
When a horse places his head down to evade contact with the bit.
Bit
The mouthpiece of a bridle to which the reins are attached, enabling the rider to control the horse.
Blanket
Can refer to the pad that goes underneath the saddle. Also refers to the body covering used on some horses during the winter. Also can refer to the color pattern that lies across the rump of an Appaloosa.
Blaze
A white mark running down the front of a horse's face. The size of the white area determines whether it is a blaze, a stripe (slightly smaller) or a bald face (larger).
Blinkers
A piece of equipment that is put on the sides of the horse's eyes to prevent him from seeing behind him. Used most often in driving and racing.
Blue Roan
A horse coat color. The hairs are primarily white, but with some gray mixed in, giving the horse a bluish tint.
Bomb-proof
A horse that doesn't spook and good for kids.
Boots
Rubber footwear around the fetlock of the horse extending over the hoof designed to protect the hoof and heel areas from injury when riding.
Bot
Small yellow eggs that are laid by Gadflies primarily on horses' legs. They need to be removed with a bot knife to prevent them from entering the horses' digestive system after hatching.
Bottom Side
This refers to a horses' mothers (maternal) breeding line on a pedigree. It is called the "bottom side" because when a pedigree is drawn out, the father's lineage is listed on the top part of the page while the mother's is beneath.
Breaking
The act of training a horse to be ridden.
Breastplate
A breastplate (used interchangeably with breastcollar, breaststrap and breastgirth) is a piece of riding equipment used to keep the saddle or harness from sliding back. Typically used in Western discipline. On riding horses, it is most helpful on horses with large shoulders and a flat ribcage.
Breed
A specific strain of horses that share certain characteristics. There are over 100 breeds of horses. Different breeds are generally better apt for specific disciplines.
Breeding stock
A mare or stallion that meets the eligibility requirements to be registered as a distinct breed.
Breeder
A person who breeds purebred horses for a living, or maybe as a hobby.
Bridle
The entire headpiece, the headstall, bit, chin strap, and reins, is called the bridle. They vary a great deal in style, shape and design.
Broke or broke in
A horse that has been trained to be ridden.
Broodmare
A female horse that is used strictly for breeding.
Buck
When a horse jumps upward and arches his back.
Buckskin
A golden, tan color horse.

-C-

Cadence
A horse moving with rhythmic impulsion.
Calf-Knees
A conformational fault where the horse's front legs look somewhat concave from the side angle.
Cannon Bone
Formally known as the Large Metacarpal, it is the large leg bone located under the knee and connects to the pastern bone.
Canter
Term used in English riding for a three beat gait. This is the same as a lope in Western discipline riding.
Cast
When a horse on the ground is unable to get his feet underneath him to stand back up. Most often occurs if he rolls too close to a wall or fence. This is a very serious situation.
Cavelletti
Wooden logs (fence posts, often) placed on the ground a certain, measured distance, over which you ride your horse. It is a training method to teach a horse balance, with even rhythmic strides.
Cavesson
A piece of an English bridle that buckles around the horses nose designed to encourage the horse to keep his mouth closed.
Chestnut
A reddish brown coat color with the same color mane and tail. Some refer to a chestnut as a sorrel.
Cinch
The part of the Western saddle that attaches directly behind the horses' from legs to hold the saddle in place. A cinch is called the girth among English riders.
Cob
A type of horse known for a stout build.
Coffin Bone
More properly called Phalanx, the coffin bone is an interior bone to the hoof. If it rotates out of its normal position, the horse will "founder", or, become lame.
Coggins Test
A blood test performed to determine is a horse has Equine Infectious Anemia. Most states require a current "coggins" in order to travel through their state.
Colic
This refers to a horse having an intestinal pain. The pain could come from a range of causes, from intestinal twists to gas.
Colt
A male horse under 4 years old that has not been castrated. The term is often misused to describe any young horse. But, young females are called fillies.
Conditioned response
When a horse is trained to a stimulus the same way every time the animal confronts that stimulus.
Conformation
The overall structure of the horse. What is acceptable conformation depends on what you plan to do with the horse.
Cow Hocks
A conformational defect of the hind legs. When looking at a horse from behind, the hocks are closer together than the fetlocks which appear to turn outward.
Crest
The top part of the horses' neck from which the mane grows.
Cribbing
When a horse chews on wood on a regular basis (i.e wood stall or fence). This can result in a dangerous health condition.
Crop
A small whip held in one hand while riding to encourage the horse forward.
Croup
The area along the horses' rump to his tail.
Curry Comb
Made of rubber or plastic, the curry is used in a circular motion to loosen dirt from the horses' coat.
Clydesdale
A heavy horse breed developed in Scotland for draft work. Think of the Budweiser commercials.

-D-

Dam
The mother of the horse.
Dandy Brush
A stiff brush used to remove dirt from a horses' coat. Some call this a rice-roots brush.
Dapples
Round, colored markings on a horse's coat.
Diagonal
When a rider is posting at the trot, he is said to be on the right diagonal if he rises and sits out of the saddle when the horses' right front leg rises and falls. Similarly, on the left diagonal.
Dished Face
A concave facial profile most often found in Arabian horses.
Dismount
To get off a horse purposefully. Without purpose it is simply a fall!
Dock
The bone part of a horses' tail at the top, coming from his rump.
Dorsal Stripe
A dark stripe that runs down the horse's back that is seen in Duns
Double Bridle
An English bridle that utilizes two bites: a snaffle and a curb. Each has a set of reins, so the rider has four reins in his hands.
Draft Horses
Heavy, large boned horses that were bred to do farm work. They include Clydesdales, Belgians, Shires, and others.
Dressage
An event where the competitors perform individually to show mastery of certain maneuvers. It is an Olympic event.
Dun
A coal color which is a yellowish-gold, like a Buckskin, but usually with a dorsal stripe down the
back.
D.V.M.
Doctor of Veterinary Medicine

-E-

Easy keeper
A horse that easily keeps in good weight without requiring extra supplements or additional feedings.
Endurance
An event in which riders and horses compete over a long distance to test their physical condition, respiratory recovery rate and stamina. Arabians dominate this event.
Equestrian
A person who rides horses. Normally refers to someone who competes in some manner with horses.
Equine
Another name for horse! It is also used to refer to horse related things like equine diseases, etc.
Equine Infectious Anemia (EIA)
Also called Swamp Fever, an often fatal disease caused by a virus that infects horses. It can be carried and transmitted by mosquitos.
Equitation
The art of riding horses and horsemanship. In horse shows, the rider is being judged rather than the horse. Their command of the horse and their elegance in the saddle are evaluated.
Ergot
The hard, horny growth under the fetlock hair on the back side of the fetlock.
Ewe Necked
A conformational defect in which the underline of the horse's neck looks slightly bulging out,
instead of arching up. It has a "U' shape appearance.

-F-

Farrier
This is a blacksmith who does horse shoeing.
Feathers
The long hair that grows on a horse's fetlocks. The draft horses are best known for this characteristic. In most other breeds, that hair is trimmed close to the skin. But, horses with "feathers" keep the hair as a breed trait.
Fetlock
The joint and outside area where the pastern and cannon bone meet, just above the hoof.
Filly
A female horse under 4 years old.
Flake
One tenth of a bale of hay.

Flank
That area around the horse's midsection where his hind legs meet his body.
Flash Noseband
A form of an English cavesson used to keep a horse from opening his mouth when bridled.
Floating (teeth)
The process of filing down sharp teeth so the horse can eat easier, usually required more with older horses. When a horse has a "fussy" mouth when bridled, sometimes he needs his teeth floated.
Foal
A baby horse or pony still at its mother's side of either sex.
Forelock
The lock of mane that grows between his ears and falls down the front of his face.
Forging
A horse forges when his rear hoof strikes the front hoof during a gait.
Founder
The infection of the soft laminae of the interior part of the hoof. It is very painful, to the point that a horse may not be able to put weight on his hoof. There are many causes including stress, hard ground, drinking too much water while overheated, eating rich pasture grass.
Frog
The triangular shaped, spongy pad on the horse's hoof which serves as a shock absorber.

-G-

Gaits
The different flight patterns of the motion of the legs while traveling. There are primarily four natural gaits. The walk, trot, canter (lope) and gallop.
Gaited horses
Horses that perform additional gaits which are naturally occurring or trained. Tennessee
Walking horses, Saddlebreds and Paso Finos are examples of gaited breeds.
Gallop
The fastest that a horse can run, a four-beat gait in which there is a period of suspension when all four hoofs are off the ground.
Gaskin
The muscle located in the hind leg, just above the hock on the front of the leg. Quarter Horses are known for well developed gaskins due to their sprinting work.
Gelding
A castrated male horse.
Get
The offspring (children) of a stallion. Some horse shows have "Get of Sire" classes wherein full or half siblings of a certain stallion compete against other get.
Grade (horse)
An unregistered horse whose pedigree cannot be documented. A "mutt" in horse terms.
Gray
A horse color. Their skin is black and they are often born another color and "gray out" during their first two years. Although a horse has white hair, if their skin is black then it's technically a "gray" horse. A true white horse has pink skin and is an Albino (a rare genetic mutation). Dapple gray is a term to describe a blotchy gray and white horse.
Green
A green horse is one that is not yet trained to be ridden.
Green Broke
A green broke horse is one that has been ridden, but only a few times, and not fully trained.
Ground Tie
A horse who will stand without walking off without being physically tied to anything. The rider can dismount, leave the area, and the horse will remain still.
Ground Training
This involved leading, tying, turning, grooming, bathing, clipping, loading in a trailer, standing still, and doing so while respecting your space. Good manners!
Groundwork
Lead rope, lunge-line and long line training taught before you actually saddle and get on a horse for the first time. Utilized thereafter for additional training and exercise.
Gut sounds
The noises that can be heard from a horse's stomach. Often important in determining whether a horse is colicky.

-H-

Habit
In the context of horses, habit refers to a rider's outfit at a horse show. It can also refer to learned horse behavior, good and bad.
Hack
Most often used to describe certain light riding horses. Not a breed, but a style of horse.
Hackamore
A bridle without a bit. There are several types.
Half Pass
A dressage movement where the horse moves on two tracks, both forward and sideways at the same time.
Halter
A piece of tack buckled on the horses' head so he can be lead, tied and basically controlled while on the ground. When riding, you will move to a bridle instead.
Hand
This is the common way to measure horses. One hand is 4 inches, so a horse that is 15 hands is 60 inches tall.
Handler
One who leads a horse, often used in the context of showing in hand, or at halter.
Hard keeper
A horse whose weight is hard to maintain and who you must feed additional grain and hay.
Harness
The tack and equipment put on a horse enabling him to pull a cart or carriage.
Hay Net
A large net, usually made of nylon, to put a flake of hay in for horses to eat while not in their normal environment, like a horse show. They are potentially dangerous if tied too low, because a horse could paw and get tangled in the netting.
Head Collar
A British term for a halter.
Head Set
The head carriage of a horse while competing. It refers to both the height and angle of the head while in motion. Typically, Western horses have lower headsets while English horses are higher -- although horses have natural headsets.
Heart
A horse with "heart" is one who tries really hard to please his rider and will withstand pain to do so.
Hindquarters
The part of the horse that includes the hips, croup, buttocks, dock of the tail, and upper rear legs.
Hobble
Used to restrain a horses legs to prevent them from being free to roam off or to kick. Overnight trail riders use them a lot to keep their horses nearby.
Hock
The joint in the rear leg located below the stifle but above the fetlock. More formally known as the Tarsus joint.
Hoof
The entire foot of the horse below the hairline. It includes not only the hard exterior wall, but the interior bones that are so vital to a horse's health. Hooves, plural.
Horsemanship
Working with horses and riding.
Horse Shoe
Made of metal and nailed to the bottom of the hoof for protection from cracks or injuries. There are many kinds of shoes with many different purposes. (You refer to a horse who has shoes on as "shod.")
Hotwalker
A mechanical device that turns in a circle, has extended arms to which a horse is tied, that walks the horse without the handler doing so.
Hunter
A type of horse well suited for hunting through the woods and jumping natural obstacles in the process. This is not a breed of horse, rather it is a style of horse.

-I-

Impulsion
The word used to describe the forward movement of a horse.
In Foal
A mare who is pregnant.
In Hand
When you are controlling the horse while you are on the ground, rather than riding.
Inside (rein or leg)
The "inside" rein or leg is the one closest to the center of the circle you are riding in. Likewise, the "outside" rein or leg refers to the one closest to the outside perimeter.
Irons
The metal part of the stirrup on an English saddle in which you rest your foot while riding.

-J-

Jodphurs (aka Breeches)
English riding pants. Styles vary.
Jog
Western discipline term for a slow trot, which is a two beat gait with diagonal legs hitting the ground simultaneously.
Jog Cart
A cart that has two wheels used to exercise horses and to show in pleasure classes.
Jumping
An equestrian competition in which the horse must jump over objects with a certain time limit.
When a horse and rider do something that's not desired, they have "faults" deduced from their overall score. If a group of riders tie, a "jump off" is performed to determine the winner.

-K-

Keepers
The loops on an English saddle to keep the billets (straps the girth attaches to) in place.
Knee Rolls
The leather padded area in the front flap of an English saddle that cushions the riders knee and helps to keep the riders knee from slipping forward when jumping.

-L-

Lame
A horse who is in sufficient pain to prevent him from walking without a limp or moving stiffly. The cause of the lameness can be varied.
Laminae
The soft part of the horse's hoof.
Laminitis
An inflammation of the laminae of the hoof. This must be treated or a horse may founder.
Lateral Aids
A term used to describe the use of your aids (hand, leg, crop, weight) on one side of the horse at one time.
Lead
When cantering a horse can be on either the right or left lead, depending on which hind leg commenced the motion. If the rear RIGHT leg began the canter, the left rear and right front would hit the ground together, leaving he LEFT front as the third and final beat. Thus, the horse would be on the left lead.
Levade
A dressage movement in which the horse shows a half-rearing on the front, folding the front legs up and holding the position briefly.
Line Up
The request made by the ringmaster of a horseshow for the riders to lineup in the center of the ring for the judge to make his/her final placings.
Ligaments
The fibrous tissues that connect bones to a joint. They are often stressed with working horses and may need special attention.
Light Horse
As opposed to heavy horses (draft horses), light horses are the average riding horse and includes many different breeds.
Light Mouth
A horse with a light mouth requires very little contact with the reins because he is sensitive and responsive to the bit.
Lip Strap
The leather strap on an English curb bit designed to prevent a horse from using his lip to play with the curb.
Liver Chestnut
A coat color which is a dark brown shade accompanied by the same (or sometimes lighter) mane and tail.
Loins
The area on the horse's back just beyond the saddle area. It is a soft, somewhat weaker area of the back.
Lope
A three beat gait, faster than a trot. English riders call the same gait a "canter." It begins with one hind leg, then two diagonal legs striking the ground together, ending with the front leg. Whichever leg ends the stride is the "lead".
Lunge (verb)
Exercising (and training) a horse using a long lunge line attached to the halter, while the handler stands in the center and moves the horse around in a circle at the end of the line.
Lunge Line
A long rope allowing a horse to extend away from the handler to exercise in a circle around the handler.

-M-

Maiden
This can mean a mare who has never been bred to have a foal; or, it can also mean a show horse who has never won a first place award.
Mane
The long hair growing from the horse's neck. Most breeds leave the hair free, while some shave it off and others braid it!
Mare
A female horse over 4 years old (A horse younger than 4 is a filly.)
Martingale (Standard or Running Martingale)
A piece of tack used to aid in control of your horse. It prevents the horse from getting his head too high, avoiding the bit and becoming out of control.
Mutton withered
A horse whose withers are rounded, somewhat fatty, which prevents the saddle from staying in place properly.
Muzzle
The nostrils, mouth, lips and chin area of a horse's face.

-N-

Near Side
We call the left side of the horse the "near side". The right side is called the "off side". Perhaps it's just because most of us are right handed, but the origin goes to how easy it was to draw your spear in combat.
Neck Rein
When riding Western, one hand is used to hold both reins coming from the bit. When you want to turn, say right, you place the rein against the left side of the horse's neck. He learns to move away from the pressure he feels on his neck, thus neck reining.
Noseband
The noseband is that part of a bridle that fits around the horse's face and buckles under the jaw bars which encourages the horse from opening his mouth.
Novice
A person who is new to showing. Formally, Novice classes in horse shows are for those who have won less than a certain number of ribbons.

-O-

Off Side
The right side of the horse is called the "off" side, while the left side is the "near" side.
Oats
A popular feed for horses which are fed whole, rolled or crimped.
On Deck
Refers to the rider who is next up in an event to perform individually.
On The Bit
Used to describe a horse who is accepting the bit in his mouth and is responsive to it. He is not "behind" the bit (trying to avoid contact by bringing his mouth in closer to his chest). Often his head profile will be nearly vertical.
Open Class
Refers to a horse show class in which everyone is eligible to compete, at any age, any gender, any level of competence.
Open Mare
A mare who is not pregnant.
Over Reaching
Used to describe a horse whose hind hoof strikes the sole of the front hoof. This can cause bruising and is a result of conformational default.
Oxer
Two jumps that are placed close to each other designed to be jumped in one leap.

-P-

Pace
A lateral gain in which the two right legs (front and rear) move forward and backward together and then the two left legs (front and rear) move together. This is a natural gait for some breeds of horse and they are referred to as Pacers.
Pad
This could refer to a saddle pad used between the horse's back and the saddle; or, a leather pad placed between the hoof and the shoe designed to protect the sole.
Paddock
A small area of fenced land, often used for turn out time for horses that are kept in stalls.
Paint
A breed of horse, known for it's multi-colored coat, although there are solid Paints.
Palomino
Another color breed of horse who is a light yellow, tan or golden hair color with a light flaxen or even white mane and tail.
Parrot Mouth
A very undesirable, inherited trait when a horse's lower jaw is shorter than the upper one--an overbite
Paso Fino
A breed of horse that originated in Spain and known for its smooth gait.
Passage
A dressage movement in which the horse performs an exaggerated, collected, rhythmic trot.
Pastern
The part of the horse's leg located below the fetlock joint and directly above the hoof line.
Pedigree
The ancestry of a horse illustrated on a form which includes their ancestors' names, registration numbers, dates born, color and sometimes show or race records.
Pelham
A type of English bit that is a combination of a snaffle and a curb but is only one mouthpiece. It may have one or two reins. Most often used with hunters.
Phalanx
The last three bones on the horse's leg which include the first phalanx (long pastern), the second phalanx (short pastern) and the third phalanx (coffin bone).
Pig Eyed
A horse with an unusually small, inset eye. Not considered an attractive trait.
Pigeon Toed
A conformational default in which the front hooves point inward toward each other.
Pinned ears
When a horse is trying to threaten another, he will "pin" his ears back and they will lay almost flat against the top of his neck. Pinning of the ears is generally an aggressive action.
Pinto
A color breed of horse known for white patches of hair, an unregistered Paint horse.
Plate
A light shoe, most often used on racehorses.
Pointing
A horse who has a sore foot will often rest his foot forward, avoiding putting weight on the foot and this is called pointing.
Points
The points of a horse include his mane, tail and lower legs. They are often a different color than his body.
Poll
The top of a horse's skull located just between his ears.
Pommel
The rounded part on the front of the saddle.
Pony
Breeds of small horses, under 14.2 hands tall. (A "hand" is 4 inches.)
Port
The raised middle area of a curb bit that relieves the horse's tongue. Some ports, however, can be severe if the raised area is so high that it can reach the top of the inside of his mouth.
Posting
A rider posts to a trot by sitting and rising in the saddle in rhythm with the two beat gate.This is typically a function of English riding, but often Western riders will post to reduce rider's "saddle sores."
Pull
Sometimes a horse's mane is, literally, "pulled" to thin the hair. This is most commonly done with show horses whose manes are braided for competition.This does not harm the horse, as there are few nerve endings in the skin the mane grows from.
Purebred
A horse that through generations of unmixed breeding, has and will produce the preferred physical characteristics of the breed. Breed registrations keep records to prove this purity.
Put down
To euthanize a horse who is very sick or injured in such a way that no recovery is expected. Also said to "put to sleep" or euthanize.

-Q-

Quarter crack
A crack in a horse's hoof that runs from the coronet band (where the leg hair meets the hoof wall) down toward the ground. A good farrier will need to attend to this.
Quarter Horse
A breed of horse that was started here in America. They get their name from the quarter-mile race because they are sprinters, fastest in short distances than other breeds, not because of their well developed hind quarters as some might think.
Quick
If a horse is "quicked," his hoof has been accidentally cut too short or a shoe nail is driven into the sensitive part of the hoof. He may be lame until it grows out, much like our fingernail beds feel when our fingernail is broken off too low. (This term is used with our canine friend's as well.)

-R-

Rails
The horizontal bars that make up a jump or the outside perimeter of the arena.
Rain Rot
Horses that stay outside in the weather often get "rain rot" when the hair falls out on his back area. It is a skin condition resulting from the combination of wet hair and lack of proper grooming.
Reins
That part of the bridle that runs from the bit to your hands.
Round Pen
A small enclosed area best used to train horses.
Rogue
A horse with a bad temper and difficult to train.
Running Up Stirrup Leathers
With English saddles, the push the stirrup irons up the back stirrup leather, then put the remaining folded leather back behind the iron to hold it up on the saddle. This prevents the stirrup irons from swinging and hitting you or the horse when tacking up.

-S-

Saddles
Tack used to sit on a horse's back to aid in staying astride. There are many types of saddles. The most common are Huntseat saddles (used for jumping) Saddleseat saddles (flat English saddles) and Stockseat saddles (Western saddles with a horn in front). (Aussie or Australian saddle shown left.)
Saddle rack
A stand to hold your saddle when it's not on a horse.
Saddleseat
This term describes one of the three main forms of riding. These English saddles are flat and the horses are most often ridden in double bridles. Saddlebreds, Morgans, Arabians, National Show Horses are compete in this category.
Seat
The position a rider takes in the saddle. If a rider has a good "seat," he/she sits properly, effectively and securely on the horse. It can also refer to the style of riding, Huntseat, Saddleseat, or Stockseat.
Shank
The shank of a bit is that part of a curb bit that runs from the corner of the horse's mouth to the rein attachment. The longer the shank, the more leverage a rider has because the curb chain is engaged more.
Snaffle bit
The most commonly used bit among horse owners. Although there are many variations, the snaffle bit creates direct contact with the horse' mouth and the rider's hands. They join in the center so that they fold somewhat in the horse's mouth when pressure is exerted.
Shedding Blade
A curved metal blade with serrated teeth for pulling off loose hair. The serrated edge of a shedding blade can be used after the rubber curry comb to remove loose hair.
Sheet
A light blanket often used on show horses to maintain their coats.
Sire
The father of a horse, as in "The foal's sire was named Coal."
Sound
This is the term to describe a healthy horse. It most often refers to his physical health ad more specifically his legs and hooves. It can, however, refer to a "sound minded" horse who is easy to train.
Spurs
These are metal, somewhat pointed artificial aids that are put on the riders boots to strengthen the rider's cues. When used to excess they can be abusive. But, used properly they can enhance a horse's training.
Stallion
A male horse over 4 years old that has not been castrated.
Standing Bandage
A quilted fabric placed around a horse's lower leg and held in place with a bandage, often used to reduce swelling or protect a horse when being hauled in a trailer.
Stock Seat
This is the generic term used to describe Western riding. It includes most any discipline that makes use of a Western saddle.
Stud book
This is a listing of breeding horses that is maintained by a registering organization.

-T-

Tack
Horse tack is all the gear that comes with owning a horse. The bridle, saddle, bit, girths, cinches, saddle pads, lead ropes, halters, whips, stirrup irons and stirrup leathers, horse boots, and most other horse things are tack.
Tom Thumb
A mild Pelham bit with shorter shanks, used on Western horses (read my post about this)
Tree
The basic structure of a saddle, where you sit, which is then covered with leather.
Trot
A two-beat gait in which the diagonal legs strike the ground simultaneously.
Truck-in
A person who brings their own horse to riding lessons or a one day horse show.
Turnout
When a horse is let out of its stall into a pasture or arena or corral.
Twitch
To twitch a horse means to use pressure (usually on his upper lip) to make him stand still. You can do this by hand or you can use a "twitch", which is a large chain attached to a wooden handle. Once twisted around his upper lip, endorphins are released that actually calm him.

-U-

Unsound
A horse with health problems or lameness.

-V-

V.M.D. (DVM, Doctor of Veterinary Medicine)
Veterinary Medical Doctor.

-W-

Weanling
A horse under one year old that has been weaned from his mother.
Whips (aka Crop or Stick)
An artificial aid used to train the horse. They vary in length and can be long like lounge whips or short like bats.

-Y-

Yearling
A horse just approaching or just turning one year old.

Quick Anatomy Reference Guide

2010-01-01T19:08:00.025-06:00

"Why should I learn the parts of the saddle, bridle and horse," you ask? Learning the correct terms of your equine anatomy and saddlery will allow you to articulate problems and concerns to your veterinarian, trainer, as well as other horse owners.

Here's a quick reference guide...Click the images to enlarge your view.

The Heat is On! // Staying Cool & Safe During the Summer Months

2010-01-01T12:58:00.013-06:00

As summer creeps near, we will soon have to adjust our riding schedules around the Texas heat. But what is too hot to ride? Many use the HSI or the Heat Stress Index as a rule of thumb (which I will get to in a minute) but really I like to use common sense as my guide. If the sun is high in the sky, and you're not prepared to run 5 miles yourself, then don't ride your horse. After working out would a cool hose down your back help to cool down your core temperature?...well then hose your horse down after you ride him. If ever you can't decide whether to ride or not to ride because of the heat, chances are you shouldn't ride ....but alas, some do much better when they can rationalize with numbers.

The HSI says that the sum of the temperature in degrees (F) plus the percent of humidity totals less than 120 then riding isn't a risk due to heat. If the sum is greater than 150, particularly if humidity contributes to more than half of this number, your horse’s natural cooling mechanisms, like sweating, is compromised. You should either lower the intensity of your workout, shorten the length of the workout, or ride very early in the morning. ...though we all know that even at 7AM it can be too hot to ride in Texas.

If the HSI is greater than 180, a horse cannot regulate his core body temperature naturally, so he should not be forced to work. For instance, if it is 100 degrees with 80 percent humidity, leave your horse in a shaded area with plenty water.

Degree + humidity % = 180 = Too hot to ride
Degree + humidity % = 150 = Perhaps a short ride early in the morning or late at night
Degree + humidity % = 120 = Low Risk

Here are two very insightful articles about dehydration, heatstroke and the HSI.

Just like the second article warns: "Your horse isn’t the only one at risk of heat stroke or dehydration. Riders must take precautions to prevent overheating in summer months. Dehydration can cause dizziness, headaches and muscle cramps, all of which could create a dangerous situation while riding."
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Horses Can Get Sunburned! During the summer months, you will want to pay close attention to horses that have white or light colored skin. Horses who have less pigmentation in their coats are more susceptible to sunburns and thus melanoma...just like humans. Horses are particularly sensitive to sunburns around their ears, muzzle and the dock of their tail. If you have a very light horse, definitely keep them out of an open pasture during the summer sun's 'high times' -- generally 10am-4pm--and shade them in an enclosed area with plenty of water.

Tack shops sell sunscreen made especially for horses but I have found human sunscreen, especially for sensitive skin or babies, is acceptable as well. Keep an eye on skin irritations though as your horse may be allergic to whichever sunscreen you use. If you see your horse develop a rash or begin itching his head, discontinue use immediately and switch brands.

The trick to protecting your horse's skin with sunscreen is to keep it on. Horses who graze in tall grass can rub off their sunscreen in a matter of minutes. One way to get around this is to purchase sunscreen that is colored, which they make for small children. If the sunscreen you apply to your Appy is pink, you will be able to tell immediately, even at a distance, if it's time to reapply.

That's a Wrap!

2009-12-31T18:42:00.018-06:00

Another question I get asked is....How do I know what wraps to use on my horse's legs? How do I know when to wrap and when not to wrap?

Depending on what you are asking of your horse, your horse may require leg bandages. I always recommend wrapping your horse's legs for transportation. Horses have very fragile legs and if they fall or trip in the trailer they can seriously injure their legs. Tack shops sell travel boots made specifically for transporting your horse. (A protective horse helmet isn't always a bad idea either.) But if you aren't going to transport your horse that often, and don't want to spend the money, you can simulate these padded boots with a fleece sheet and polo wraps.

I'm a big fan of polo wraps for many different reasons and circumstances. In the winter they can keep your horse's legs warm, on a trail they can protect your horse from thorns, brush and flying gravel...and in the ring, they can protect your horse's legs from sand or from bumping a jump.

The most important thing to remember when wrapping your horse's legs is never wrap too tight. You don't want to cut off circulation in your horse's legs or inhibit muscle movement. Tight wraps can give your horse muscle cramps and strain tendons and ligaments. I have seen many how-to videos that, in my opinion, are wrapping the horse's leg way too tight....you should never pull on the wrap with force, but rather gently lay the polo wrap around the horse's leg and then making sure the wrap is secure with taut Velcro. Polo wraps should always be wrapped towards the back of the horse.

Your goal is evenness so it doesn't put strain on a section of the horse's leg and thus causing injury. Make sure your horse's legs are dirt free before wrapping them and make sure there are no wrinkles in the fleece. Never leave your horse's legs wrapped in polo wraps for a long period of time or over night (unless instructed by a DVM). Horses' legs need time to relax, breath and move freely in between rides.

Another wrap that is similar to polo wraps but offers a little more vertical support are "Sport Boots" or "Splint Boots." These boots are usually attached with Velcro and have a rubber piece that covers the inside of the horse's legs or the cannon and cups the fetlock joint. Not only do these boots protect the horse from gravel, sand etc., but it protects the horse's legs from rubbing against each other.

Bell Boots are commonly used on both English and Western horses to protect the horse's hooves and pastern from "under-cutting" or "over-stepping." This happens when the horse's back legs come up and hit the horse's front legs, generally when cantering or jumping. Bell Boots are sometimes secured with Velcro, but some have rubber all the way around -- In order to put these on, the boots are turned inside out, stretched over the horse's hooves (wide bell part stretched over first) and folded down to be right side out.

Another wrap you should always have on hand, and take with you on trail rides is Vet Wrap. Vet Wrap adheres to itself and has stretchy give. It's a great fix in countless situations...perfect for dressing a minor trail wound...on your horse...or on you!

The horse to the right has an ingenious owner who has secured some twine to this young horse's tail with Vet Wrap! This colt hasn't grown a long enough tail to be effective in the battle against flies, so this owner came up with this!....great idea!